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  1. 12 likes
    All gotta go!!! -Stock 6 speed JDM gearboxes: i'd got 2 of them. [built-in oil pump compared to newer models, hence, more reliable than GRB/GVB models] -Stock Brembo kit with Tarox rotors (front & rear dual PCD): $1.5k -Stock Single scroll extractor (one part of the cover removed) & up-pipe: $100 [for those who are scrapping car or selling it to dealer or exporting] -Stock STI driveshafts: $200 -Stock STI manifold and throttle body set: $350 -Stock STI clutch: $100 Intake -HKS Racing Suction with BKS 4" MAF Inlet: $120 Cooling -HKS Oil Cooler: $500 Interior -Defi Advanced BF gauges (new model): Boost, WaterTemp, OilTemp, OilPress: $800 -HKS Turbo Timer: $80 PM me if you are keen!
  2. 10 likes
    Fs: Some parts may require swop: Labour on buyer Pm me your offers 1) Full set STI S204 interiors ( Front pair S204 CF recaro , Alcantara rear seats and 4 door panels) 2) Damd steering wheel with S204 airbag 3) Original BBS S204 18 inch rims 4) Pivot Turbo Timer 5) Sti Chrome Door handles 6) AST sportline coilovers 5x100 (Sold) 7) Moton Clubsport coilovers 5x100 8) Porsche GT3 355mm front 6 pot ceramic piston front BBK / 4 pot 345mm Rear BBK 9) Front Original Albero Bumper from Japan parts - urban grey 10) Original Launsport WRC front bonnet - urban grey 11) Original Launsport WRC side skirts and rear bumper - urban grey 12) Fujisubo axle back exos with cert (sold) 13) Fujisubo cat back exos with cert. (sold) 14) Perrin 25mm front and rear sway bars with perrin stout mounts 15) Cusco H bar 16) Cusco 8 point body power brace kit and rear chasis brace 17) Sti S204 trailing arms 18) Sti S204 aluminium lateral arms 19) Sti 204 Original carbon fibre Vlip with rubber protect 20) APR CF side mirrors (sold) 21) super pro tie rod kit 22) Perrin big rear diff cover 23) Cusco Rear Diffuser with brackets , cut to fit Fujisubo 24) BKS aluminium engine under tray 25) Perrin Front Strut bar 26) Perrin stealth Front mount intercooler 27) Perrin radiator hoses 28) Perrin Turbo inlet hose 29) Perrin Big maf intake 30) HKS turbo cover 31) Perrin oil catch tank 32) Perrin coolant overflow tank 33) deutscheworks 800cc fuel injectors 34) Power enterprise PE 1820F turbo with HKS actuator 35) Perrin Top feed parallel fuel rail 36) Sard Fuel regulator 37) Pivot voltage stabilizer 38) ARC carbon fibre 3 gauge holder 39) Defi Turbo / boost / oil temp gauges with controller and sensors 40) Cusco Rear Strut bar 41) Original Sti S204 interior panels 42) Original Sti S204 rear tail lamp 43) Original Sti - S duck lip spoiler - urban grey 44) Original Seibon CF rear roof glass lip - one and only in singapore 45) Original Seibon head light lip .. need swop with entire headlamp 46) HKS engine oil cooler kit 47) Gearbox oil cooler kit 48) Pro torque converter with strengthen auto gearbox 49) Perrin Anti lift kit. (Sold) 50) Perrin Radiator shroud 51) Sti intake manifold tgv delete 52) cosworth short block. (Sold) 53) Spare 3 inch racing downpipe with original covers 54) Perrin Subframe lock down kit 55) Perrin lightened crank pulley 56) Perrin battery tie down 57) Perrin Pulley cover 58) Cusco brake stopper 59) Grimspeed Fast spool header and uppipe . 60) Greddy Big racing BOV 61) Greddy Pro spec boost controller 62) Koyo radiator 63) Original Sti Vlip 64) Original S204 auto folding side mirrors (sold) 65) Original subaru Sti Door sills 66) Fender brace 67) Sti front aluminium lower arm 68) Dec 2007 auto rex. . stock after dekit sales or option to purchase with all of the above parts 69) Adaptor spacer to convert pcd 5x100 to 5x114.3 PM me if you are keen . . 30% deposit required to reserve parts . will arrange go workshop to dekit after consolidating sales in one go . . for pictures please refer to gallery to see " grey hound bone shaker " photos , not the latest update version though.. Cheers!
  3. 9 likes
    Hi Bros & Sis, Have the following items to sell.All taken from 07 STI 1)Rota IKR 18 9.5 + 20 pcd 114.3(STI ONLY) black rims - $988 2)Tomei unequal length extractors & up pipe - $500 3)Kakumei 3" DP - $250 4)Labonte methanol kit with touchscreen monitor - $800 Item in car.Dekit only for confirmed buyer. Posting on behalf of my friend , 1)WRX 07 Manual gearbox full set - Offer 2)WRX 07 550cc blue injectors - $200 3)WRX 07 handbrake mechanism in good condition - Offer 4)STI Brake pump - $250 5)Subaru WRX 07 speedometer cover - $50 6)Varis replica gt wing with high mount cf stands(brand new) - Offer Bought but decided to go with Voltex Type 5 instead.No cheapos offer please.Item is new. 7)Trust Pe Tir comes with cert. - $1250 1 owner.Slight scratches below no dents. Will give both original silencer & aftermarket silencer. 8)Sti 07 rear seats & door panels - $300 9)A,B,C Pillars set - Offer 10)Sti 07 Air con Center panels - $300 11)15mm PCD 5x114.3 5in5out spacers(1 Pair) - $140 PM if really keen.tks. Lowballers & time wasters stay OUT!!!!No Money Don't Mod!Stay STOCK!
  4. 9 likes
    The following picture is what a macpherson strut suspension looks like. The flat panel at the bottom (with the 3 connection points) is called the Control Arm or A-Arm. I replaced the front control arms on my Subaru some time ago. I bought aluminium STi control arms from subarugenuineparts.com for US$566. With shipping, taxes, and handling / admin fees, this came to a total of S$924. Buying this locally in Singapore would have cost around S$1,100. So I really didn't save much Here're the sequence of events: Order Date: 21 Feb 12 Shipped: 13 Mar 12 Notification Received to pay Goods & Services Tax (GST): 22 Mar 12 Delivered: 27 mar 12 This is the packaging that the STi Aluminium Control Arms came in. And this is what they look like unpacked: For comparison, this is what my stock WRX control arms look like: I've placed these control arms in a position in which they would be mounted on a car. If you are having a top view, with the front of the car on top, and are able to see through the car's engine bay, this is the position that these control arms would be in. The bottom parts which have two holes each are the anti-lift kits (ALK). On my stock control arms, I already have aftermarket ALK's on them. The extreme left and right mounting points are where the suspension would be resting on (see red circle in the picture of the macpherson strut above). For comparison, I have used Photoshop to overlay the stock control arm over the STi aluminium control arm. In the second picture, I have made the stock control arm transparent, so that you can see the STi control arm below. Otherwise, they're the same picture. The scale would not be exact, but I have aligned all the mounting points except for the suspension mounting point as circled in red. All mounting points circled in green are aligned. The mounting point for the suspension is further front in the STi control arm. Therefore, using the STi control arm gives my front wheels more caster. On doing a wheel alignment, I confirmed that my caster angle increased from 3.5 degress to about 5 degrees. The STi aluminium control arms also have the benefit of lower unsprung weight. Each aluminium arm weighs about 4.75kg, while the stock steel arms weigh 5.65kg each. So this is what my stock control arm looked like. It is a picture of the front left wheel taken from the front of the car. And this is what it now looks like with the STi aluminium control arm: Somewhere in the center, you can see the I-Link connected to the front anti-roll (sway) bar. There was some uncertainly as to whether there was a need to change to an STi anti-roll bar, but I did not need to do so. The result was an obvious increase in straight-line stability. The steering tends to keep its straight position and not veer off-center as much as it would previously (although it was not that serious). This can be attributed to the increased caster angle. The benefits of the lower unsprung weight was not as noticeable to me. I tried going through some humps and uneven roads, but could not tell whether there was an improvement over the stock control arm. Anyway, it's much more "bling" now, isn't it?
  5. 8 likes
    Clear Space sale, all previously used on 2007 hawkeye rex: 1. SOLD 2. Cusco 1.5 way rear LSD for rex R160 diff - Comes with new cusco clutch rebuilt pack (this alone is $500) aka can be rebuilt to new before installing. $599 3. PPG straight cut gears (1-4 gears only) for rex 5-speed - 1-2 longer than stock, 3-4 shorter than stock. Good for those who wanna to rebuild their current 5-speed. Use back your own syncro and stock 5th gear. 0-100km/h in 2nd gear and can pull to 120km/h. http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/page.asp?productid=82 4. Perrin 3" Turbo Inlet hose $179. Like new http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Perrin-PSP-INT-410BK-Turbo-Inlet-Hose-3in-Black 5. 5x100 PCD 5x100 Rear Hand brake mechanism HBM from 2007 wrx. Great for TS bro to convert to rear disc brake. $199 6. WRX Drive shafts x 4 and WRX Prop/Center Shaft $199 7. SOLD 8. Stock rear R160 rear diff for Euro Hawkeyes $199 9. 1.5 Scroll Header/up pipe. Similar to Fullrace set up. Extractor is Twinscroll with stock cover and up-pipe is 2-1. Fastest spool for Single Scroll turbo. For reference: http://edgeautosport.com/full-race-1-5-scroll-up-pipe-lower-turbo-manifold-wrx-sti-02/ 10. SOLD 11. 2 pieces of Advan RS in factory black. 18*8 5x100. Good to use for spare wheel/tires at track for those on BBK. Bought for $400 per piece. Lots of brake dust. $99 per piece. 12. Ganador style CF side mirror. non-motorized $199 13. Hawkeye stock clutch for 5 speed- estimated 60-70% left $99 14. CF 3-piece front grill $149 15. Stock air scoop in black $49 16. Stock header and downpipe with all cats intact. Like new as only use for a year after collect car before taking out. 17. Stock Front lower A-Arm and caster kit. $149 18. SOLD 19. ATP 3" to 2.4" Turbo inlet adaptor 20. SOLD 21. SOLD Will be adding more once have time to check. Do drop me a PM
  6. 7 likes
    Hi Guys and Gals, We had our Mega meetup quite awhile back. Therefore, we're organising a Pre CNY Mega meetup! As long you're driving a Subaru, just come join us! Don't be shy and see yah! SUBARU CLUB SG MEGA MEETUP Venue: Kallang Leisure Park, Car Park F Date: 7th Feb 13 (Thursday) Time: 8.30pm onwards Contact: Bryan 9155 7015, Kelvin 9008 4811 snsd555- Alex Hamet- Larry d3vil0gy- Bryan Sufers- Joseph EUGEANZ- Eugean kenken- Ken Rentabass- Issac 320bhp- Jerry Cherie- Cheryl Evoodo- David Trident- Jeremy PG18- Kelvin bigtoe- Keith xteme- Raymond Jack09 - Jack (auto inserted from behind many times by darling) raystarlet - Ray Mikaboy lowbassman - auto insert Langzi - Auto inserted 6zerog - ericmetta kevinteo AMG_M125 The Winata xteme Vatoloco hello 1819 sylverkexin kesmond Frosty Brothers!! -updated 7th Feb (d3vil0gy) RAIN OR SHINE EVENT!!
  7. 7 likes
    1. If your items are sold, please update and rename the topic and add a (SOLD) at the end of it. This would very much help other SELLERS to reach out to potential BUYERS in a more effective way. And also, SELLERS won't be getting calls/enquiries after the items are sold. 2. Please restrict yourself to using only 1 thread when selling multiple items at the same time 3. Members will not be permitted to use the STICKY feature for their post in this folder 4. All threads will automatically be pruned (removed), 7 days from date of first post. If your items are still available, please repost after the expiry date. 5. Members are encouraged to make their own backup copies of their sale information if they foresee the details are still required after 7 days. subaruclubsg.com takes no responsibility and will not be able to provide any restoration services. 6. All BUYERS & SELLERS are entitled to their exclusive rights in pricing. 7. All transactions are to be carried out independently between BUYERS and SELLERS. SubaruClubSg.com shall be in no ways liable or responsible for any transactions made here. 8. Members found violating any of the above rules & regulations will be subjected to suspension of their login account till further notice.
  8. 6 likes
    Dear members, we believe some of you may have encountered the above mentioned during certain transations done. Some of the cases involved more than 3 sellers over 1 buyer. Worse case is that some have not be able to collect their money back after buyers gave empty promises to defer payment and went MIA. In order to create awareness to our fellow members in our forum, you are welcome to share the event you have encountered and list down the nick, name, contact or other form of description for our fellow members to look out for; to avoid being cheated by such buyers. .:: The best way to avoid being posted here is, if one CANNOT afford for items or service, DO NOT buy or commit. ::. PLEASE NOTE: This is NOT a thread to flame, it's a thread to protect sincere sellers & buyers. And at the same time, STOP such irresponsible cheaters/dirty buyers from repeating their act again. ** DO NOT GO OFF TOPIC
  9. 6 likes
    PM if keen. Performance 1. STI turbo VF43 - low mileage, on a 11,000 km per year car. Clocked 60k km. 2. Blouch 20G XT - Clocked 20k km. 3. BKS turbo inlet hose 4. Cockeye STI TMIC (bigger than Hawkeye STI) 5. Carbonetic twin plate carbo clutch. By far the nicest clutch feel, same as stock. Nice sound too 6. Sard Fuel Regulator 7. 1000cc FIC Injectors 8. AEM Methanol Kit 9. HKS Kansai Carbon Air Box + stock intake funnel 10. Trust open pod filter (fits the air box perfectly) 11. Koyo full aluminum radiator + silicon hoses (blue) 12. Fujitsubo catback exhaust with cert and serial number visible. This must be the best condition round (not dented) fuji you could find, regularly polished, almost chrome Properly operated. 13. Walbro 255 lph fuel pump 14. BKS oil catch tank 15. STI air splitter with matching rubber shroud Handling 1. Yellow Brembo 6/4 pot 355mm front + rear slotted rotors. Need 18" to clear. Thick pads and rotors. These will give you absolute confidence in braking. If these 6/4 cannot stop you well, I don't know what will... and they look gorgeous too! I have used 4/2 Red with upgraded parts, Brembo 4/2 gold with upgraded parts, don't waste time on those! 2. Rota IKR 5 x 100 ET35 18 x 9.5" Gunmetal. Original color. Very minor kerb surface rashes on the rims of wheels, I believe were from tyre change. 3. 4 x AD08R 265/35/18. 2 pieces 90%, just bought with receipt. 2 pieces 50%. 4. ISC N1 coilovers 10kg front 8kg rear. come with front camber plates ordered separately. No leaks. 5. Front Cusco ARB 22mm 6. Rear Cusco adjustable ARB 22mm 7. Front Cusco Strut Bar with Brake Stopper 8. Rear STI Pink Strut Bar 9. STI front aluminum A-arms 10. STI pink rear lateral links 11. STI rear lateral arms 11. Powerflex aluminum C-links 12. Whiteline front spherical endlinks 13. Stock STI rear I-links 14. Cidep red fender bars 15. Group N Engine and Transmission Mounts 16. Kartboy Pitch Stop Mount 17. Whiteline Crossmember bushings 18. TiC Rear Differential bushings 19. TiC Subframe bushings 20. Original STI rear diffuser with subframe bar 21. Project KICS R40 Neo Chro Lug nuts 22. Kartboy short shifter with bushings 23. Front H&R camber bolts 24. Rear SPC camber bolts 25. Project KICS R40 Neo Chro Lug nuts Exterior 1. STI Spec C aluminum boot. ~5kg. Lighter than most CF boots. Square key hole. Urban grey 2. STI original high mount spoiler. Urban grey 3. Chargespeed side lips. Matt black 4. Chargespeed rear side diffusers. Matt black 5. STI rear bumper. Urban grey 5. STI rear fender arches. Urban grey 6. Fog light cover without holes. Urban grey 7. Original STI vlip with rubber add-on 8. Carbon fibre roof vane. Urban grey at sides. 9. Clarkewan HID bulbs 12k. Misc 1. 6 x Defi BF amber. Boost, oil temp and press, water and exhaust temp, fuel press 2. Defi VSD Concept. Display your parameters on windscreen 3. AVCR Black. 4. Pioneer AVH-P4150DVD + Reverse Cam + iPhone cable. This head unit has interchangeable colors to match your interior lights 5. Red wrx speedometer low mileage. Red LED professionally done by suparu 6. Original 2 x Bride Stradia Low Max black. Come with original Bride railings for GD chassis. No tear/burn/holes as they are used with original Bride protector pads. 7. 4 x Original Bride protector pads. Black. Meant for Stradia Low Max. Left and right kidneys, left and right thighs.
  10. 6 likes
    Ok guys, i know many of you are demodding and moving from your GD rides. Most are new to modding after buying fully done up rides or previously driving rides that are not in the MOD category. So pls remember, most GD's are up to go by 2007 , latest by early early 2008. So dont expect to resell your engine stuff, CF , exterior, body or anything specific to GD at a small loss. Not all subaru parts can be used on ALL Subarus. If in doubt ask on the forums in the sections. There are many old hands here that are willing to advise and help. This is after i spoke to a few bros today. He just bought a 05 end Cockeye used, done up, got introduced to a bodykit/workshop by the dealer. Bought about 2k worth of CF and body stuff. Dealer and shop told him the stuff is an investment and that can sell with small loss if he wanted in future. So wife didnt like it and he wanted to sell the stuff at almost the same price. Posted in SCS forum. And after a week said that all the guys here are lowballers and cheap asses. So this is my opinion. Im sorry to say no one would pay 900 for a CF bonnet for a car they can drive for one year. A 300 offer with swap is fair to me from a guy who can drive for 12 mths no matter what price you paid. So if you really want to move your stuff, please remember that models come and go, and unless you really trust the dealer (OMG), ask around. To me once you buy something new for a car you lose 50% and then more the older the car.
  11. 6 likes
    Hi guys, Since there is no td in Sep, i decided to re spray my car from Pearl white to Black with glitters. Just wanna share some pics of the clean state of my car after paint protection system and grooming done. I wish i could have capture the glitters effect better. cheers
  12. 6 likes
    Hi Guys, here are the photos taken during the meetup. Its great to meet up with all of you and you guys are awesome!! I apologize as some photos aren't sharp or good due to poor lighting and hope you guys don't mind. Have a great year ahead everybody!~
  13. 6 likes
    Hi all, This is going to be quite a lengthy post. Currently I am planning to drive up North on a 7 days road trip (of which 2 days on the weekends are dedicated to trackdays). Road wise, mainly on the highway. Cruise speed wise 130-150km/h (try not to drive too fast as the ride quality is uncomfortable at higher speeds) Most legs are within 4hour, maximum 5hour window. So fatigue is not much of concern. Also since 2 trackdays are 7 days apart, must as well dovetail into 1 x road trippin' hahaha Day 1: Sepang trackday -> Genting Day 2: Genting -> Cameron Highlands Day 3: Cameron Highlands Day 4: Cameron Highlands -> Penang Day 5: Penang Day 6: Penang -> KL Day 7: KL -> Sepang trackday -> KL Day 8: KL -> Singapore Parking wise should be save as long as the necessary precautions are taken: 1. Car will be covered with the standard car cover 2. Battery disconnected 3. Starter/Ignition Fuse pulled 4. Steering Lock + Physical Steering Lock 5. Engaged gear (away from direction of exit out of the lot) 6. Borrow wheel lock from hotel (ahaha) I intend to perform the steps on a daily basis whichever location it was parked (preferably away from prying eyes and in the sheltered/underground carpark when possible. Car 2006 2L STI (very low mileage for a 7-yr old car; abt 80k; timing belt done ages ago) Car doesnt eat any oil/coolant 1-bar boost on highway only (1.4 for track) Mods: ...quite extensive... -only thing is the freaking loud exhaust (w/o silencer; remove only out of c'try; if drive with silencer, i dun boost at all) -the freaking hard & harsh ride quality (not so much on highways but smaller roads...) I'll also bringing along 4 sets of track tires with me throughout where I go (erm..the car is stripped out except for driver's seat of course) Not sure if can keep the track wheels at sepang. Note -I am a pretty regular trackie at Sepang hence driving up from Sepang & KL area, I am pretty familiar. Only thing is that I usually come back on the same day to Singapore instead of staying over. Logistics -Car wise is in perfectly working condition, -A spare set of car battery, normal sized. On car: Odyssey pc680 (on car which tends to die often) -Tools: Spanner set (8-21mm), Ratchet & Allen key set (many sizes), Jack stands, Hydraulic Jack, Torque Wrench, Cross-Spanner -Spare wheels (just use the track wheels if needed) -Brakepads: no requirement for spare as current ones are brand new front & back...probably just dump 1 set front spare just in case... -Standard track day items: Engine Oil, Brake fluid, Coolant, Cable ties, Tire Pressure Indicator tool, etc. Workshops -Most probably will be plotting some workshops (best if they are specified Subaru) along the entire route just in case of any unforeseen diversion. Contingencies -Emerg road service / tow ctc details -Emerg service ctc -Alternate itinerary is to stay longer at Cameron Highlands -Car got broken into (via smashed window etc.) -Worse case scenario is car stolen -Install built-in GPS/Camera? (I'll try not to as they drain the small battery) -Change boss kit to get a removable steering wheel kit? Will probably be taking the car to BKS to check it out before heading out. Any advice is welcome... Also, some say Subaru arent usually targeted by car thieves...but rather the inside gauges and Headunit that they are interested in. One more thing: this is a solo trip (except for KL portion) Will post pictures of the trip & video (time lapse) aft I am back.
  14. 6 likes
    My setup is function over form (based on instruction manual) & track setup Car Year and Model: 2006 STI (2L) Rim model and specs: Advan RS (Silver) 18x9, +45, 5x114.3 Tyre model and specs: Federal 595RS-R, 255/35/18 b4....now R888 235/45/17 with stock sti rims [car is hardly driven so wont wear so fast] Camber: 3 Front 2 Rear Fender Mods: Front and rear minimally rolled (lye design) Suspension: Tein Super Racing 12/9 (and other suspension goodies) Height 13.4" front & 13" rear
  15. 5 likes
    Newly Updated with Comprehensive Autowrx Parts Listing. Parts are all in very good condition, unless indicated before the transaction. Parts not listed, pls text me. Items that do not have a price tag, kindly text your offer. Price indicated just a guideline, welcome you to chime in if price is not reasonable. You Need to Text me Your Offer - I do not know what you are thinking. Parts Available Immediately 24 x 7, No Swap and Labour Charges. Town Collection, delivery upon discussion. If you need other Body, Engine Related & Electrical Parts pls text me. 1. Door Components. Front Passenger Door - Available, Mint Condition, Motor - Available, Window Regulator Assy. - Available, Lock Set - Available. Glass - Available, Front Driver Door - Available, Mint Condition, Motor - Available, Window Regulator Assy. Available, Lock Set Available. Glass - Available Rear Passenger - Available, Mild Dent Condition, Motor - Available, Window Regulator Assy. Available, Lock Set Available. Glass - Available Rear Driver - Available, Mint Condition, Motor - Available, Window Regulator Assy. Available, Lock Set Available. Glass - Available 2. Fujitsubo RM-01a Cat-Back Exhaust System. ( JDM Length ) ( LTA UN-Friendly )-----------------------$2xx/- Very Negotiable, Self Collect. very good comdition. - PnP Cat-Back Solution for JDM Length Downpipes. - 1 Piece Design & Lightweight. - No Welding Work Required. 3. Full Wiring Connectors and Pig-Tail Harness available upon request. 3. Seat Belt Front L & R and Rear L & R $50/- Mechanism still good, belt no frays along edges. Take and go. 4. Boot Torsion Spring. 5. Rear Windscreen. $60/- 6. JDM AUTOWRX Stock SuspensionBad $95/- Per side. 6. Wiper motor and arm set. Both Front and Rear. $100/- 7. Sti Steering Wheel. 8. Hawkeye Fenders. $100/- 9. Wheel speed Sensors. $50/- 10. ABS Pump Autowrx / Bosch $160/- 11. Brake Servo. $100/- 12. Cockeye Rear Bumper $50/- 13. Stock Anti-Roll Bar. Front and Rear $60/- each. 13. Air Conditionng Condensing Coil & Heater Coil. $220/- 13. Flap Control Assy. with Servo. 14. Electrical Module, Head light levelling, Autobox Ecu and Integrated Control Unit. 15. Dashboard Cluster. 15. Boot Torsion Spring for High Mount Spoiler 16. Anti-Roll Bar, I-link Type $60/- 16. Rear Strut Bar $85/- 16. Tail Lamps. 17. Boot with holes $50/- 18. Boot with High Mount Spoiler Square and Round Key Hole Choice. $120/- 19. Air-Conditioning Compressor 20. Auto WRX Drive Shaft Front/s and Rear/s. All rubber covers replaced and recently serviced. Take and Go no swop and labour charges. 1 piece @$100/- Front and Rears $380/- 21. Auto WRX Rear Differential. Take and Go, no swop and labour charges $250/- Negotiable 22. Alternator 23. Steering Pump. 25. Sti Aluminum Lateral Links/Arms. 26. Sti Trailing Arms. 27. Fujitsubo Lta Compliant Catback Exhaust, The Usual found on Euro WRXs, Euro Length. Pls get your own Paper. Very Negotiable. Welcome to swap with Hybrid Megaphone Exhaust w/Paper and JDM Mid-pipe. 28. Autowrx Head Lamps HID. 29. Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator - Small W/Pressure Gauge. 30. Deatschwerks 750cc Injectors, Set of 4. 32. Ignition coil for 2.0STI. 8 pcs. available.. Condition very new, Recently changed due to wrong diagnostics. 33. Owen Deveopments Forged Actuator. 34. Litchfield / Garrett Boost Actuator. 20psi spring lots of life. 35. Stock I-Links. ( Rear & Front ) 6 pcs available - Good Codition. Per Pc. Price Negotiable. 36. Stock Throttle Position, MAP and MAF Sensors. 37. TGV set Left & Right Bank 38. Moton Clubsport W/ External Canisters Full Set $Text Your Offer/- 39. Lightweight Spec C Rear Windscreen 40. Original Light Weight Spec C Front Seats Black W/Red STI Stitching. No Tears. $480/- 45. Recaro S204 Seats $3.5k Per Pc. 46. Lock-set for door and boot. 47. Steering Column without Steering Lock Cylinder. 48. Wiper motor Set Front and Rear. 49. S204 BBS Rims. $2880/- 90. Flexible Duct with Bracket for CAI $20/- 93. Stock Transmission Mounting 1Pcs. $40/- 94. Engine Mounting 1 set $50/- Good for demodders... 95. Wiper Arms. Front 2 Pcs. Rear 1 Pcs. 102. Perrin Oil Catch Can, good condition 103. Tein Bonnet Damper - Mint. Condition. - 2 Pieces, 1 pair 104. All other Exterior Body Parts, Pls Enquire. 105. Brand New Steeing Coupling. 107. Fuel Sender Unit. 112. 6 Speed Gearbox + DCCD & Rear Diff.+ Drive Shafts 113. Full Electrical Harness. with DCCD Control. 113a. Ecu and Body Harness Pins and Connectors Prices Start from $10/- upwards. 114. Prop. Shaft, Drive Shafts etc. 115.Handbrake Mechanism for 5x100 P.C.D 116. Spec C Nuckles 120. Passenger Air-bag. 2 sets to Choose From. 121. Steering Rack Cross Member. 122. Fuel Sender Unit. 125. TGV type STI Red Manifold. 126. Mild leak steering pump, suitable for repair. 128. Billion radiator hose set upper and lower with temperature sensor adapter, Brand New Condition 132. GDB Engine Undertray - Good Condition, no tears 133. HKS Reloaded Air Filter W/HKS "S" Pipe, HKS MAF Adaptor. Full Acessories. Mint Condition 139. HKS Twin Power with Full Wiring Harness For GDA/GDB. 140. HKS Twin Plate GD Pro Clutch, for 6 speed. Parts available for individual Sale. $ Text your Enquiries. /- 141. Customised Fuel Tank Plate for SAE-6 Fittings. Applicable for GDA/B Models 142. Mint. Condition NGK Racing Spark Plugs Heat Range 7 and 8 Used for Tuning 4 pcs. 143. Mint. Condition Left Bank Exhaust Cam Pulley 2 litre Head non AVCS on Exhust 144. Stock JDM Oil Filler Cap. 145. JDM Spec C. Meter Cluster With DCCD indicator 146. Sti Red Intake Manifold w/TGV. 15. Radiator / AC Condenser Fan Motor. 16. Radiator / AC Condenser Fan Blade. 19. JDM autowrx 02 Sensor. Condition: Mint. Location: Mid-pipe Last set for sale... 24a. Window regulator Assy. for sale, Availability Listed Above. 25. Window Motors Availability Listed Above. Negotiable... 28. Slow Ratio steering Rack, Recently changed, Brand New, not reconditioned - No Leaks . Very Good Condition, Cash and Carry... 29. JDM Sti Boot with spoiler holes, round key hole. 30. JDM Rear Bumper - JDM WRX - Non-STI, Without the rear Fender Plastic 31. JDM Centre Plastic Tunnel. $250/- Negotiable 34. Steering Tie Rod Ends. - Per Pc. Very Good Condition, Cash and Carry... 34a. Superpro Steering Tie Rod Ends. - Very Good Condition, Cash and Carry... 36. Spec C roof Vent. with plastic interior trim with flap-door rubber seal. 36a. Complete rooflining + Spec C Roof Vent, Plastic Trim & Mint. Condition Roof Lining 37. Cockeye Body parts pls text enquiry... Front Fender has been rolled in excessively, wheel well guard / banana leaf users need not apply.- Thank You. 40. Autowrx Rear Windscreen. with Hole for Wiper Shaft. 41. Rear Windscreen Wiper Mechanism + Motor 48. Defi meter cups, Mint. condition. 2 pieces available. 50. A-Pillar Trims left & right, Good for demodders. 51. Glove compartment. 52. Air conditioning system. I mean complete evaporator coil assy. Factory stock Non-climatic type. 54. Airbag control module. 55. Fuel controller module. 2 pcs. Available. 56. 2003 Spec c door cards. . 57. Seat Belt Set.- front 2x and rear passengers 3x 59. Autowrx carpet- whole car. Front to rear.$40/- Per Pc. 60. Bonnet Bar- 2 to choose from. 67. Perrin Lateral link set- Re-Sprayed Pink - Condition Very New 68. Aluminium A-arms- superpro bushings-small end & sti bushing large end, recently inserted. nego. Very Good Condition, Cash and Carry... 70. Nuts, Bolts, Brackets and Clips off MY03 & MY07 WRX 71. Fog Light Cover - Passenger Side 72. Fog Light Cover - Driver Side With Wire Mesh / CAI Friendly. 73. Other Parts pls text 92700635. 74. Sti Stainless Steel Door Sills, All 4 pcs W/FOC original factory sills - No need to Swap . 75. Rear View Mirror 76. Every piece of interior trim you could possibly find in an 03 wrx sti. Sun Visors Anybody... Roof Handles too... 78. Original S204 Boot Emblem $4x/- 79. Boot Hinges, Door Hinges, Bonnet Hinges. 81. Engine components available upon request. 2. Fujitsubo RM-01a Cat-Back Exhaust System. ( JDM Length ) ( LTA UN-Friendly )-----------------------$3XX/- Very Negotiable, Self Collect. very good comdition. - PnP Cat-Back Solution for JDM Length Downpipes. - 1 Piece Design & Lightweight. - No Welding Work Required. 5. Stock Anti-Roll Bar front or rear I-Link Type...Each $50/-. 11. Volk SE37A 18" x 7.5. "5x100" Bronze. Not Applicable for brembo. Will Require 10mm Spacer Condition: Mint. No Respray for 3 pieces, 1 piece repaired. Sold in sets of 2 or 4s. 12. Centre Caps for the GC06D and SE37A rims available for sale. Condition: Mint. $50/- per. pc. Negotiable. Prodrive 3 in stock. SE37A 4 in stock. 13. Hubcentric Rings for GC06D Available. 2 sets to choose from $40/- Negotiable. 13. Bosch 979 Fuel Pump - Good Condition, Used for 8 to 10 days, for high HP Setup. Bought for testing surge tank setup. $120/- For further questions, kindly look up the internet. *Price matching applicable to all items, Conditions Apply... Welcome the enquiries of other parts that are not listed. Listed prices are Negotiable. Complete body,mechanical & electrical parts for sale off an 2003 cockeye, Some autowrx parts available upon request. kindly text your enquiries. Shoot your offer. Deposits are forfeited if goods / items / parts are not collected within 10 days. Refunds will not be entertained after successful transaction. To Purchase, SMS/CALL 92700635 S.B.
  16. 5 likes
    Hello all members, As with our latest software upgrade, we have a refreshed core committee in place - we believe in the passion for Subarus Sharing of knowledge, great meet-up sessions, supper runs, off-road challenges, tracking, charity drives, new model launch privileges etc. Introducing to you, our new (.. but old) core committee members, who will facilitate and bring the best out of the Subaru Experience to you. Remember, for the members, by the members. Bryan aka d3vil0gy - PR/Sponsorships Paul aka highrider - SCSG Vice Chief, Forester Chief, some say.. the legendary forester that tail lamp cannot even see.. Wah Kum aka elijahbaley - Chief technical, race events chief, 3GWRX Chief, multiple trophies representing the pride of Subarus Ken aka kenken - Chief racer, PG Track days coordinator, legendary PG White Knight, multiple trophies representing the pride of Subarus Jerry aka 320bhp - Chief technical, legendary PG King, Content chief Keith aka bigtoe - Chief NA pride (yet has another turbo impreza) KQ aka BLehBleh - Chief technical, Chief Events, SubTag Chief, Chief Mega meet Chua aka Chua27 - 4G Turbo Chief, Chief IT, Vice Chief Mega meet Joshua aka Keeper8388 - 4G NA Chief, Events Wee aka Dontellu - Chief Support, Events Our inbox are always opened! Do feel-free to drop us a PM to any related queries! Looking forward to serving the Subaru community! For the members, by the members Best Regards, Bryan
  17. 5 likes
    Let's see it coming from the Scooby Hellaflushers! Format Car Year and Model: 2006 WRX Rim model and specs: Rota IKR (Grids) 18x9.5, +38, 5x100 Tyre model and specs: Hankook Ventus S1 Evo, 235/40/18 Camber: 2.2 Front 1.8 Rear Fender Mods: Front and rear rolled and pulled Suspension: BC BR V2 12kg/10kg All the usual flushers, lai lai lai post your swee swee pics!
  18. 5 likes
    Hi all, For sale. Sale for December only. 1. Used 3 x Defi (Blue) meter with controller - 1set ($500) 2. Used 07 Forester supersprint exhaust- 1set ($300) 3. Used 07 Forester bonnet Scoop 1set ($150) 4. Used pair of Tein coilovers - 1set ($550) 5. Used pair Front & rear Rotors with 4p/2p Brembo gold -1set ($950) 6. Used Front gear knob - 1set (Sold) 7. Used Front Strut Bar - 1set (Sold) 8. Used 18" japan brand 5x100 offset 8.5' rims with michelin tyres 225x45x18 (left 70-80%) - 1set ($950) Noted (Need swap your 16" rims and tyres) 9. Used WRX front only Seats - 1set (Sold) 10. HKS EVC boost controller -1set ($280) 11. HKS Hi-Power exhaust for forester 2.5XT (Sold) 12. APC dual entry top mount intercooler with twin induction to better spread the cooling.($400) 13. APC Blow Off Valve.($250) 14. VF22 turbo ($300) 15. 3 x Zero sport gauge pod ($180) All item offer ($3000) Interested parties kindly contact me. 50% deposit for reservation. No obligations at all for viewing. All items C&C.
  19. 5 likes
    I've been tuning WRX/STIs for awhile now and have seen more than my fair share of lightly and heavily modified cars. Often many people modify their cars based on the recommendations of workshops and people they know, claiming that X modification is great etc. Sometimes these are right, sometimes they're misinformed and other times they are outright lies. I'm not affiliated with any workshop so here is a few cents from me on how to modify your WRX/STI to suit your power goals. I'm not going to discuss anything not related to engine performance such as handling etc. Fuel System Common modifications are fuel pump, fuel injectors and fuel regulator. On 2.5 engines you do not need fuel upgrades if you don't plan to run more than 1.3-1.4 bar of boost. Fuel upgrades are required above that so you don't run lean during high boost, high RPM. Upgrading any of the 3 components will increase your maximum injector flow rate but my preference is for a fuel injector upgrade as that is the only parameter you can input in the ECU for an accurate tune. Upgrading the fuel pump will also increase your injector flowrate but your tuner will then have to make an educated guess at your new injector flow rate. This increased flowrate may be non-linear, meaning that it will require hacks other than modifying the injector flowrate to produce accurate fueling (such as messing with your MAF scaling or fueling targets). I will consider upgrading the fuel regulator as the last resort as most aftermarket fuel regulators modifying your fuel pressure according to boost but the exact figures are difficult to dial in during tuning and will lead to even more guesswork. Recommendation: Leave fuel system untouched below 300-350 WHP as long as your tuner is not maxing out your fuel injetors. Change requires tune: Yes, immediate. Boost Controller Most people don't need an aftermarket boost controller. The stock ECU is capable of controlling boost fine. You can upgrade the solenoid only as they allow for ECU to have finer control of boost levels and are able to handle higher boost levels. If you want to buy an aftermarket boost controller to view / set boost levels on the fly, that's fine as long as you don't run levels higher than what your tuner has tuned your car for. Be also warned that if you bypass the ECU by using an aftermarket boost controller, the ECU will not be able to reduce your boost levels when it detects problems in the engines such as excessive knocking / detonation. Recommendation: Replace only the boost solenoid. Change requires tune: Yes if set to higher boost and tuner did not tune your car to handle those levels. Turbo / Actuator Choose the right turbo for your power goals. If you're a technical person, you can look at turbo efficiency graphs to determine which turbo is ideal for your power goals or check with your tuner. There is no point spending money on that huge ass turbo when all you want to run is 1 bar of boost. All you end up with is more turbo "lag" and a lousy torque curve. Most people don't need an upgrade on their actuators either as a properly controlled boost solenoid (via ECU or aftermarket units) will do fine at holding boost. Recommendation: Choose the smallest turbo that is efficient at your intended boost levels. Change requires tune: Recommended for performance gain, required if there is a big difference in size Intercoolers I'll say get a big TMIC, right sized air-splitter and be done with it. Unless you're looking to make above 400WHP, I believe that the trade off in a laggier spool up is not worth it. A big FMIC can easily delay your boost by 300-500 RPM. Not to mention that you're now more prone to boost leaks (more joints), may have to remove / modify your crash bars and other issues associate with FMICs. For people looking to make big power though, the added cooling by FMICs is probably worth it. A rotated intake manifold can also help in reducing lag on FMICs. Recommendation: Stick with a TMIC below 400 WHP. Bigger is good, as long as your air splitter allows air to flow to it properly. Change requires tune: No, unless the setup changes significantly such as TMIC to FMIC Intake Stock intake is fine up to 300+ WHP. The built in cold air intake works well, stock filter filters better than any aftermarket filter while flowing well and there is little reason to change it except for the sound. Changing the air intake is one of the most common modifications people make but there is usually no performance gain and definitely requires a retune especially if the MAF housing is changed. Recommendation: Leave it alone. Change requires tune: Yes, immediate if MAF housing size changed. Exhaust 3" downpipe will give you the most gains, followed by a similar sized mid pipe. Mufflers won't much of a difference except for the sound. I believe there are no legal modifications to downpipes though decatted downpipes cannot be seen visually. Recommendation: 3" downpipe and catback exhaust. Otherwise decatted downpipe. Change requires tune: You will see immediate performance gains when upgrading from stock even without a tune. A good tune may give further power gains. Methanol Injection Big power gains for a few hundred dollars, why not? Just be warned that a failure in the system will most likely lead to engine damage very quickly as cars tuned with methanol injection will probably knock heavily without meth when under boost. Many meth kits in the market now have failsafe features which makes this somewhat safer. Recommendation: Install one with failsafe features. Change requires tune: Yes, as you will not see power gains without a tune. Radiator Get the thickest, most dense sonuvabitch full aluminum radiator you can find. I believe Subaru puts higher pressure radiator caps on the radiator than the expansion tank but generally there are no issues sticking with stock radiator caps or putting 1.3 bar ones on both. Stock rads fail all the time so when they do fail, it is the perfect time for an upgrade. Recommendation: Swap the stock for a thick aluminum radiator Change requires tune: No Engine Internals If you're rebuilding your engine or just want big power numbers, then consider getting strengthened engine internals. A common modification done during engine rebuilds is reducing compression ratio through the use of a thicker headgasket so the engine can run higher boost. However, reducing compression ratio this way leads to other issues (such as quench height) which causes engines to knock more and may not be as straightforward as believed. Another common modification are forged pistons which will probably make the most difference in increasing the strength of the stock engine. However, most forged pistons have looser tolerance, which leads to a slapping sound especially on cold starts. They are also more likely to consume a bit of oil. If you're looking to make even bigger numbers, then other components like connecting rods, head studs, bearings, crank etc can all be strengthened. Recommendation: Leave it alone unless you plan to run >1.5 bar of boost Change requires tune: No unless compression ratio or displacement has changed More to add later. Feel free to correct me if there are any errors.
  20. 5 likes
    1. Gold brembo respray with slotted rotor for front and rear c/w used brakepad and ssbh --- $2300. 2. Red Subaru brakes Front and Rear --- $700. Need any subaru parts can PM me.. All above item cash and carry. Sincere buyer pls PM me...
  21. 5 likes
    Hi Nick, Have moved your post here out of goodwill. Good luck in your sales! Cheers, Bryan
  22. 5 likes
    Hey guys, looking to dekit my ride and chill. 1) Owen Development GT30 -(SOLD)!! for everything. 2) STI Gold Brembo front and back to be swapped with stock wrx brakes in good working cond, - sold 3) Carbing 8 point bar - withdrawn 4) spec c aluminium front bonnet (lighter then cf ) swap with 05 black bonnet - (SOLD) 5) spec c aluminium boot (lighter then cf) swap with wingless black - (SOLD) 6) Front STI Carbon Stur Bar - $250 (labour by buyer) 7) Rear STI Pink Strut Bar - $200 8) Front Lower STI Pink Sway Bar - $200 ( swap with stock + labour by buyer) 9) Rear Lower STI Pink Sway BAr - $200 ( swap with stock + labour by buyer) 10) FULL STI INTERIOR ( SEMI BUCKET SEATS + REAR SEATS + DOOR PANELS + All STI Mats) Offer + Swap with stock - (sold) Pm me for more info. Please Pm me to discuss further. Thank You.
  23. 5 likes
    hi guys.. was a great meetup.. there were like 20+ cars at 1 point in time... haha.. Thanks bro devilogy for getting the ball rolling... here are some of the pics i took.. pls excuse my very rough use of paint to remove the car plate numbers as much as i can... meet up again to chill soon.. cheers all.. and drive safe...
  24. 5 likes
    Please do not post another For Sale thread if your old one is still in the For Sale folder. One member is only allowed ONE For Sale thread per week. NO Bumping of For Sale thread within a day. Any members found violating this requirement, will have their threads removed immediately without notification (neither prior nor thereafter) from the moderators. Violators will have their login accounts suspended/removed.
  25. 5 likes
    Fellow Subaru Enthusiast, During the past weeks, the committee has been brainstorming on how to make this an even better place for all to gather in one common interest - which is our passion for this 4-wheel creature. As much as we want to keep this place as frills-free and fun as possible, we have learnt that rules are a necessity to ensure order. However, we've tried our very best to keep them as basic and as minimal as possible. Please do spend a few moments going through the following announcements. Subaru Club (Singapore) Rules & Regulations For Use Of Forum All members please take note; 1. While the administrators and moderators of this forum will attempt to remove or edit any generally objectionable material as quickly as possible, it is impossible to review every message. Therefore you acknowledge that all posts made to these forums express the views and opinions of the author and not the administrators, moderators or webmaster (except for posts by these people) and hence will not be held liable. Should any postings be removed, please note that we are not under any obligation to inform the respective authors of the removal. The views represented/posted by individuals on this forum do not reflect that of the owners of this forum unless otherwise stated. Whilst every attempt will be made to limit/moderate potentially slanderous remarks/posts, SubaruClubsg will not be held liable for comments made as such. 2. You agree not to post any abusive, obscene, vulgar*, slanderous, hateful, threatening, sexually-orientated or any other material that may violate any applicable laws. You also agree not to post details (i.e. profession, personal particulars, etc) of other members, nor of the projects carried out on their vehicles without their prior consent. Doing so may lead to you being immediately and permanently banned (and your service provider being informed). *We can understand that vulgarities are more often than not, used as a "figure of speech". However, if the administror/moderators feel that it has been used with malicious intents, we shall reserve the right to remove them and/or issue warnings to the author. 3. As a user you agree to any information you have entered above being stored in a database. While this information will not be disclosed to any third party without your consent the webmaster, administrator and moderators cannot be held responsible for any hacking attempt that may lead to the data being compromised. 4. This forum system uses cookies to store information on your local computer. These cookies do not contain any of the information you have entered above, they serve only to improve your viewing pleasure. The email address is used only for confirming your registration details and password (and for sending new passwords should you forget your current one). 5. Users are to exercise self-restraint in all posts made, and to be considerate towards other forum users and not junk a topic with excessive personal chat. SCS do have an online IRC chat room on Galaxynet, named #scoobyclub 6. Use of Signature features shall be limited to non sexually explicit, suggestive, offensive materials. It would be up to the Moderators' discretion to decide if any materials used are deemed inappropriate. Please avoid using huge signatures too as users on dialup will suffer major lags. Users would be notifed by the Moderators if a removal/change of signature is required. 6b. Members are also not allowed to use their signature to advertise any products/services, nor hotlink to any external sites carrying an advertisement of sale/promotion. 7. At any point in time, if the Moderators notice that any topics are straying off, highly flamable, etc - certain emoticons will be used as a gentle warning. Members who disregard the warnings and persist on malicious posts, will be gagged/ban at the discretion of the adminstrator till further notice. 8. This forum has ZERO tolerance for flames, flame mongers, shit stirrers. Any members guilty of this inconsiderate act will be gagged/ban till further notice. 9. The IP address of all posts is recorded to aid in enforcing these conditions. You agree that the webmaster, administrator and moderators of this forum have every right to remove, edit, move or close any topic/posts at any time should they see fit without any prior notice. 10. All rules and regulations are subjected to changes by the Administrator without any prior notifications. This is my forum, if the above rules & regulations do not appeal to you, please do not use this forum further and the exit doors are always wide open. By using this forum, you agree to be bounded by all the above conditions.
  26. 4 likes
    Selling the following: 1) 2007 STI aluminum lateral links with Group N bushings pressed in (all 8 pieces, inside and outside) 2) 2007 STI KW Club Sport dampers only (114.3 PCD) 3) Whiteline roll centre adjusters with tie rod ends (corrects for 10mm lowered rides) SOLD 4) Zerosports roll centre adjusters (very rare, no longer in production, corrects for 25mm lowered rides) SOLD 5) Whiteline rear subframe lock down bolts 6) Whiteline anti lift / caster kit SOLD 7) MSI lightweight rear subframe with optional RCA adjustment (corrects for 25mm lowered rides) - unused, never installed No longer for sale 8) 2005+ JDM STI quick steering rack with 13:1 ratio (EDM and USDM STI rack is 15:1 ratio) - please check fitment with me first All parts are in 100% serviceable condition from a very low mileage STI (60,000km). Make me an offer if interested, lowballers welcomed.
  27. 4 likes
    Hi all, Scrapped my beloved legacy and have the below items for sale; 13. JDM BL9 rear bumper (New, unpainted & unused, shorter & nicer looking rear as compared to stock) = $500 15. Koyorad aluminium radiator + Hayden ATF cooler + Air direction cooling plate = $400 17. Project Mu SCR-Pro slotted 2pc Front rotors (x2) + Project Mu Rear rotors (x2) = $400 Please kindly PM me if you're interested in any of the above items for sale. Thanks for viewing. Sold Items: 1. Battery cover (engine bay) 2. Beatrush aluminium undertray (slighty modded for more air flow) 3. Black Brembo 4pot Front + 2pot Rear calipers + Endless SSM pads (& numerous other brake pads) 4. Blitz air intake cover (hybrid system) + Zerosports air intake pipe (blue rubber) 5. Center console arm rest extension (BL5, for more storage space) 6. Cusco Front top strut bar (with brake cylinder stopper) + Rear top strut bar + Undercarriage H-bar 7. Dash Mat (BL5, for covering the dash board cracks) 8. Floor mats x 4 (original legacy stock) 9. Front Fog lamps (Original, only used for 1 year) 10. Fujitsubo cat-back Exhaust system (LTA approved with cert for BL5, some dents + scratches) 11. Greddy Infometer (old model) 12. JDM aluminium rear trailing arms & lateral links (weight savings) 14. JIC coliovers (some knock sound from 1 of the rear coil) 16. Oxygen sensor (Original, new & unused) 18. SSR Type C (Original, Forged, 17"x 8J +48, Gunmetal color, with some kerb rashes) + 1pc 17" stock rim + Rays Lock Nuts 19. STI oil filter (pink) x1 20. STI reinforcement braces (black) 21. Twister side mirrors (blue color, wide angle to eliminate blind spots)
  28. 4 likes
    Hi, Left with these parts.. Cash and carry - 2.0 WRX front Oxygen Sensor Very New Testing only - $50CnC - D1 Spec Turbo Timer with Shift Lamp -$30 CnC - IKH22 iridium plugs brand new in box -$70 CnC - Cusco Cylinder Brake Stopper - $50 CnC - Perrin 3 pot EBCS - $50CnC - HDI FMIC Full set - $300 CnC - 2.5 Oxygen Sensor $50 CnC - Red Subaru 2 pot (90% pad ) with knuckles & HB mech
  29. 4 likes
    For those who have known me, would know i change exhaust set up like changing clothes in search of the boxiest scream for the WRX. So i've decided to contribute my experience so the rest of you bros can decide on an exhaust suitable for you and not waste so much money on labour in search of your music. Ride: MY07 WRX EDM Spec Exhaust components contain of: 1. Headers (aka extractors) 2. Up pipe (usually come together with extractors, but not all the time) 3. Down Pipe 4. Mid Pipe 5. Muffler 6. Open Pod (added this in as this does affect sound) 7. FMIC (does create a more deeper tone) 8. Turbo (more flow, more sound!) 9. Tune (aggressive tune, louder) 10. Cams (changes idling characteristics and scream on WOT) Set up 1: Stock extractors and up pipe Stock downpipe (with cat) Operated muffler Sound and experience: The sound is indeed louder, slight boxerish note. Very slight in fact. Sound at 2k RPM would sound like stock muffler revved till 4k RPM. Slightly bassy. Boost lvl upped by 0.1BAR. Faster spooler, better high end. By very slight significance. Set up 2: Stock Extractors and up pipe Stock downpipe with cat NO MUFFLER. (Note: rear muffler box removed) Sound and experience. Louder den 1st set up. Very boxerish. Not bassy. Loud. Faster spooling, good torque over the RPM range. Boost upped by 0.2 bar. Note: The stock muffler is VERY restrictive. Set up 3: Stock extractors, uppipe and downpipe with cat. Fujisubo cat-back (unoperated) Sound and experience. Mid lvl boxerish, Mid lvl bassy. Good mid end, not very great improvements in high end. Boost upped by 0.2 bar as well. Set up 4: Stock extractors, uppipe and downpipe with cat STi rear muffler. Sound and experience: Muffled boxer. Slighty bassy. Lesser power and torque den set up 2. Boost up by 0.1 bar. Set up 5: Stock extractors, uppipe DECATTED downpipe Fujisubo (non operated) Very bassy. Muffled boxer. Very good mid end to high end. Boost up by 0.3 bar. Set up 6. Stock extractors, uppipe Decatted DP OPERATED fuji VERY VERY bassy. Slighty punchier boxer at idle. Spool rate comes fast. *at this point i had a boost controller, can't see up boost by how much* Max boost came in 400RPM quicker. Set up 7 Tomei extractors, uppipe Decat DP OP fuji With tomei extractors, i lost a huge amount of bass. Boxer had more punch, but less loud. From a burble in the boxer, to massively quick "burp burp burp" Overall sound decreased. Torque came in 300RPM faster. Very hard punch from mid to high end. dynoed at this point, compared to stock, there was an increment of 60whp at 0.8 bar. Dynoed came in at 230WHP at 1.3 Bar. Set up 8 VF34 turbo. Tomei extractors, upipe SIDE PLANT Blitz Open Pod EXTREMELY loud. EXTREMELY boxerish. SLIGHT bassiness. Low end suffered like crazy. Super fast spool and extreme high end. Dynoed at 330WHP at 1.4Bar Set up 9 VF30 turbo Tomei headers and uppipe KAKUMEI 3" DP HKS HI SILENT (Operated) Blitz open pod Personally, this is the set up i love the most. Extremely boxerish when boost comes in. Punches harder than a trust. Bassy and NOT boxerish on idle. EXTREMELY loud during WOT. very beautiful exhaust tip. Dynoed came in at 320WHP. A loss of 10WHP due to no sideplant. Note: Sideplant is extremely free flowing. Set up 10 VF34 Tomei headers and uppipe Kakumei 3in DP Fuji (operated) Blitz open pod Very bassy. Mid punch boxiness. Spools slightly slower than above. However high end abit better. Bassy boxer idle. Bop bop bop Power wise, not much difference between operated HKS and operated Fuji, maybe 1-2whp at most, but high end wise, fuji takes the victory. Didn't dyno this set up. Setup11 VF30 Stock uppipe (pussy died) Stock Downpipe (pussy died) Apexi Open Pod HKS Silent Hi Power CBE (Unoperated) Extremely silent idle. Bassy moving off Sweet spot at 2.1k RPM (Bassy boxy) Not as boxer-ish as Fuji Sweet sound on WOT (merge a wrx and an evo together) 281whp @1.3bar Sound level: Idle - 79db/81db/78db (3 readings) 3,000rpm - 89db/90db/90db (3 readings) Setup12 VF30 Stock uppipe (pussy died) Stock Downpipe (pussy died) Apexi Open Pod HKS Silent Hi Power CBE (Operated full 3', along with full 3' midpipe) I did both ways on above: 1. With muffler wool and resonator 2. Without muffler wool and just a 3' pipe Only difference is that: 1 -> Very bassy and boxerish. Its a muffled boxer but very pronounced when wack on throttle 2 -> Helicopter choppy boxer. Extremely loud. Louder than a sideplant (I don't know why) Extreme boxer without the bass. Butt dyno: Sluggish low end. Solid spool + mid to high end punch. No official dyno figures, but butt dyno comparisons estimate a 1-5whp increment across the mid to high end range. 1.3bar Setup13 VF30 Stock uppipe (pussy died) Stock Downpipe (pussy died) Apexi Open Pod Apexi N1 Catback (Unoperated) Butt dyno figures: Loss of high end power. Low end very solid. Strong mid-range pull. Very bassy idle (not as loud as fuji, louder than un-op hks silent) Not as boxerish as fuji (but more boxerish than un-op hks silent) Better low end and mid end than unop fuji and unop hks silent) High end lose to unop fuji, but win hks silent Solid bassy growl upon WOT. Mellowish boxer with bassy kick. No droning. No official dyno figures. Idling - 80db/84db/82db (3 readings) 3000rpm - 90db/92db/92db (3 readings) Manufacture's reading - 92db IMHO - Apexi N1 has the best mix of boxer pur with mellowish bassiness amongst comparisons with the Fujisubo CBE, and HKS Silent hi power CBE, and easily the loudest on WOT. (Note: all being un-oped with the same setup) Setup14 Blouch TD05-18G Stock Sti uppipe (pussy died) Stock Sti Downpipe (pussy died) Stock Sti extractors Apexi Open Pod Turbo inlet hose FMIC Apexi N1 Catback (Unoperated) Larger sized turbo brought up the roaring characteristic of the Apexi N1, almost like unleashing it and bringing the N1 to life. Boxy Idle got louder. Idles like a Fuji with boxer note, but more mellow. N1 has a mid-range bassy boxy tune. (As loud as an unoperated Fuji. Louder than unoperated HKS) WOT is heaven. Apexi N1 is a raw screamer. Boxer note roars and flutters in a very raw way. The scream from the tail pipe is like a V6 straight through kind of fluttering roar. On stock extractors, uppipe and downpipe, N1 surprisingly can flow very well and does not choke. Can fully utilise the turbo up to 1.6bar. The scream at 1.6bar from the N1 is far different from Trust, Fuji, HKS. I would say the scream is the most raw, rude, in-your-face, loud uncivilised scream that is so addictive. Till date, my favourite still N1 lol. *note. 1: Turbo, open pod, inlet hose, fmic, tuning, displacement (2.0/2.5), JDM/EDM, Twinscroll/Singlescroll affects the sound. Therefore every rex may sound different. 2. Single Scroll gives the boxer note, twin scroll sounds like a hybrid evo/wrx together 3: Aftermarket extractors are less boxerish den stock ones, unless they are very unequal which in turn affects ur high end and spooling rate 4. JDM boxy beats are harder and pronounced compared to EDM 5. 2.0 is louder, boxer growls harder. 2.5 is tamer and slightly softer. 6. Some of the above modifications break the law. And contributes $500-750 to the government's pocket. 7. I am lta-friendly, and not in anyway encouraging anyone in trying to break the law 8. Stock is best. Side note- Found out from STA that the loudest passing level for a WRX 2.0/2.5 is ----> 102DB!! Woohoo! Other bros who have anything u wanna contribute, do add as well. Cheers. Some videos for reference (not my car); Apexi N1 Catback Fuji + decat Trust/Greddy Pe-Tir w/o silencer HKS Silent Hi Power with cats STI exhaust vs Apexi N1 Catback Open Downpipe (no exhaust) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOsn5O4f214 Side plant (open & close) Wastegate scream List of approved exhaust for the; EDM 2.5l WRX(06/07) Catback (Midpipe+Rear muffler) 1. Fujitsubo Catback (Most high end, middle sound) 2. Apexi N1 Catback (Most low end and mid end, most sound) 3. HKS Silent High Power (Strong all rounder, least sound) 4. Trust PE-TiR (Without silencer, best exhaust in the world) Axle-back None. EDM2.0l WRX (02-05) Catback 1. Fujitsubo Catback 2. Apexi N1 Catback 3. HKS Silent High Power 4. Trust PE-TI 5. Remus Titanium Catback (Rare) Axle-Back 1. HKS Legamax 2. Supersprint 3. Remus JDM Auto 2.0l WRX (06-07) Catback 1. Fujitsubo (only 1st batch) Axleback 1. HKS Legamax 2. Fuji Axleback 3. Supersprint axleback 4. Apexi N1 axleback 5. Prodive (Rare) 6. Remus Titanium Tip (Rare) 1.5 Hatchback (08 onwards) Catback Axleback 1. Tanabe 2. Supersprint 3. Remus 4. SYMS 2.0 S-GT (GH8) Catback 1. Fujitsubo 2. HKS Silent Hi Power 3. JIC Magic 2.0 STI (GH8) 1. Corazon Catback 2.0RS (GH7) 1. HKS Silent Hi Power 2. Remus (Muffler) - 9tro's awesome compilation for all makes and models: http://www.9tro.com/news/lta-approved-exhaust
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    Hi Bros, car is due to dealer for trade-in very soon. Have some parts for sale if anyone is interested. Price is fully negotiable. Some items are still on vehicle which will need to swap. Buyers will need to bear the labour costs. Pls note below - Model is MY05 TS - Reasonable expectation as car is approaching 10 years but price is fully negotiable. - Supersprint exhaust dual tip with certificate (require swap) -$100 - WRX 4/2 disc brakes (red) (require swap) - $100 - Clark Extractor (no need to swap) - Original stock MY05 TS brakes - front disc and back drum (No need to swap) - Original stock MY05 TS exhaust (No need to swap) - Original stock MY05 head unit with disc changer (No need to swap) - 17" Pro Drive GC-06H (Black/Red) forged rims (With kerb rash and scratches), tyres need replacement. (require swap) - Attached pix showing condition of scratches. - $200 Pls pm me if keen. Thank you.
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    1)WRC blue rear boot for MY03-MY07 Impreza. Condition 9/10. 2)Charging alternator for MY03-MY07 Impreza. 3) 1 pair of WRX front & rear swap bar for MY04 to MY07. Interested can contact me at 94557282.
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    HKS engine oil cap (original) - $50 Hawkeye fog lamp (1-pair) - $100 NGR 3-spoke steering wheel with boss kit - $150 Greedy oil catch tank - $80 - CUSCO turbo heat shield - $100 - Snow performance meth kit stage 3 + vericool progressive stage 3 controller - $400 - BREMBO BBK FULL SET 4-2p ( candy red ) with DBA. Front rotors and bendix ultimate pads for F/R Goodreigh SS HOSES (Lots of meat left for rotors and pads) - SOLD - ROTA IK-R 18" offset 35 5x100 ( sprayed to gold by Exotic rims) + 255/40/18 ADVAN sports tyres (no track 80% or more left) - $1,500 no swap - Koyorad radiator - $400 with swap + LABOUR - Orig. Defi ( Turbo / oil temp / oil press + all sensors ) + center hood and controller - SOLD - !!!! WHATSAPP !!!! 90916900 for pics
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    Hi guys, latest video uploaded. 2min 32sec on sepang. The lines aren't perfect, made some mistakes here & there. T1 - could corner at a higher speed since i still have traction sidewards (i'd reduced the steering input slightly before the apex). T2 - apex close to the chicane is better. T4 - Turn in too early. T7 - Turn in too early. T9 - Could afford to turn in just a touch later... T11 - Missing the apex completely. T11 is tricky in terms of visual references for brake point. Gotta to base a lot on feel to get into the correct speed in order to get the apex that i wanted. Most people will tend to brake too early for T11 and end up coasting/cruising through (meaning not or brakes or throttle) which is a big no-no. T14 - slowed down a little too much...that turn can carry more speed through if the car setup is right. T15 - brake fade. hence decided to take a early apex so i won't end up wasting the line by going too far away from the apex (meaning go for late turn-in)...this caused me to lose close to 1.5seconds (based on my ideal line a few sessions before without brake fade comparing sector times with QStar LT-Q6000). All in all, the lines could be further improved...last track day was 3 months back...probably lost touch slightly. Best sector times added up was 2m30sec, bet that 2m30s barrier could be broken in the next few track days...hellyeah, haha. For those interested in my car setup: 1. STOCK ENGINE...EJ207 2. Intake -Prova ram air intake guide -HKS huge ass intake -BKS customised MAF adapter (idle AFR is pretty erratic...cant help it as this is huge) -AVO turbo-inlet -COBB airbox 3. Turbo & Exhaust (twinscroll sound is awesome btw) -Litchfield twinscroll LM420 @ 1.35-1.40bar... -Tomei twinscroll EL extractor & downpipe (swap s204 down pipe for daily drive) -Trust Ti-R 4. Fuelling (need to keep my tank above half so i won't get fuel starvation at SIC T14 or PG T1 because i do not have surge tank...) -Walbro pump -Sard regulator -Customised parallel fuel rail -ECUTEK 800cc Injectors -Spec C collector tank (inside fuel tank) 5. Transmission -Carbonetics Twin-plate -OEM JDM 6speeder with 3.5FD (JDM is 3.9FD)...this setup is better in my own opinion -Goodridge clutch SS lines 6. Cooling (3 hot laps is my limit...just below 120deg C water & oil temp) -Koyorad 36mm (thinner one...not the standard 53mm) -HKS oil cooler -Prova brake ducts (mounted on Lower Ctrl Arm)...thats a reason why cockeye model have a hole just below the foglight, that hole will direct air to the brake duct... -Spec C tank + oem sti spray with Pivot water spray set at 3sec ON spray, 2sec OFF spray 7. Brakes -Tarox B34GT10 with 340mm 2pc tarox rotors (i dunno what pads i have...it came with the brake kit) <- very very progressive feel & good control for trail brake -Rear OEM Brembo with Tarox rotors & Project Mu HC+ pads (anything less than HC+ pads, i will have very forward brake biasness. The tail will be loose during high speed braking, eg. before T1 & T15) -Goodridge SS lines -Cusco brake stopper (prevent master cylinder from flexing under heavy load) 8. Handling -Tein SRC (12kg front, 9kg rear) -> this is really pretty unbearable on street driving even on sg road set at the lowest settings -Superpro RCA (previously Whiteline...no difference anyway) -White Race ALK -Summit Racing Fender Brace, H-bar & Tie bar (tie bar is in front of H-bar) -Cusco Powerbraces (centre & rear) -S204/RA-R rear lateral links & trailing arms (these gives very good control over the rear) <- highly recommended -Cusco Rear ARB (set to softest), front is stock (used to be cusco 23mm...had it removed as it is more balanced with oem ARB) -DME front strut bar + rear Oswald Performance X-brace (this will strength up the rear a lot...) <- highly recommended -Oswald Performance front bumper (3kg vs oem 12kg) <- highly recommended -Odyssey battery (6kg vs 15kg)...thats why it is useless to change carbon hood as the savings aren't much compared to the rest) -Rear boot is stripped out likewise for rear seat. Rest of interior still ON. 9. Bushings & Mounts -Group-N mountings (Eng & Transmission) - Superpro (here & there) -Kartboy (here & there) -TiC bushings (here & there) 10. Wheels & tires Advan RZ 17x8.5 +45 ...they are about 7.5kg. stock STI enkei are close to 9kg. Volks rims are usually <7kg. CE28N 6.5kg Advan A050 235/45/17 medium compound <- highly recommended (much better than R888 - sidewalls soft) 11. Setup & Alignment Ride height (hub centre to fender): F 13.4", R 13" <- followed Tein's recommendation based on the manual Camber: F -3.1, R -2.0 Toe: F -0.10, R -0.05 Caster: F +5.3 (Whiteline ALK + Tein SRC caster adjustment) Tire pressure: F 36psi, R 35psi (Hot tire pressure); F 32psi R 32psi (Cold) <- lower after 2 sessions out (2x 1warm, 2hot, 1cooldown laps) Tire temp usually are 75deg C ++ aft 2 hot laps for front & 65deg C for rear. (+5deg for inner & -5deg for outer side of the tire) -Temperature across the tires are pretty consistent from inner to outside...so alignment is about right already.. -Reduced my front camber slightly aft increasing caster as increased caster helps dynamic camber] -PS. rear toe helps the car rotate better during low speed tight corners. However, it may be too sensitive for trail brake if you aren't used to it -Btw, i am using a temperature laser instead of pyrometer..hence may not be the most accurate because of tire reflectivity and other science stuff. Thus, only use it as a relative gauge only, good enough to compare outer, middle and inner relative temperatures -Need to try to lower to Hot 33-34psi to try out on the next track day. (plus a050 have better sidewalls than r888 so pressure can go down slightly) Summary So far the setup is good. No understeer on turn-in or corner-exit (unless i really scrubbing it because the speed is excessive) Oversteer...nil (yes if tires are pretty worn on high-speed turns...happened a few times on R888 during T12 & T13 off-cambered turns) Car rotates very nicely on trail brake...
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    ken, SF.SG will be there to support. Aside from our suvs we will have some wrx/sti & other makes in our convoy and hopefully some friends from SOCC, Subaru Owners Community Club from Malaysia. See you this weekend.
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    MY04-05 blue STI high scoop -$180 MY04-05 Wrx tmic -$130 MY04-05 blue air dam with fog lamp - $200 MY04-05 original air intake - $50 MY04-07 STI stock dump valve -$70 MY04-07 plastic stock coolant tank -$60 MY04-05 STI stock shifter - $70 Hks oil cooler plate (to direct air flow to cooler) -$100 Stock STI lug nuts x 20 pcs with adaptor - $120 Volk Racing lug nuts x 20pcs with adaptor -$270 Stock 5x114.3 front & rear rotors (left 70%)- $150 Arc air filter with adaptor - $120 All prices are neg, just wanna clear them from my store room Pls pm me with your Hp no if u wanna pics for the item. Thanks
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    Ok I think I have to make myself more clear . LSD = Limited Slip Differential. U r not wrong when u say WRX have rear LSD. But I hope u dun be mistaken between STI's LSD & WRX LSD... WRX has a front Open Differential, Viscous Coupling Centre Differential & Viscous Rear Differential Or Viscous rear LSD u would like to call it. Front Open Differential is something lika a 1 wheel drive. The wheel with the least traction get the most power applied to it.. Dat's abt it... A viscous coupling is a mechanical device which transfers torque and rotation by means of a viscous fluid. Which means in simple explanation it only equalise torque transfer between front & rear axles. When front & rear axles turn at same speed the cool viscous fluid will stay liquidfied. But when front & rear axles turns at different speed the viscous fluid in the centre shaft's Viscous Coupling Centre Differential will heat up & harden & lock the centre differential so the front & rear differential will turn at same speed. The Viscous Rear Differential Or Viscous rear LSD works the same way as the Viscous Coupling Centre Differential. Whereas the STI's LSD can split torque between front & rear axles, but also splits torque between left & right wheel on the same axle... DCCD equipped STI has planetary center differential in conjunction with an electronically controlled continuously variable transfer clutch. Driver can select the amount of torque transferred to the front & rear axles... Earlier models 6Sp STI have front Suretrac LSD, rear Torsen ( Torque Sensing) LSD. Think the hawkeye STI front & rear both uses Torsen LSD... So it's no surprise wrx will spin out ard corners. It's either road condition no good ( e.g. wet, oily, sandy... etc..), accelerate at the wrong time, tyres condition no good (e.g. bald, over inflated, expired tyres... etc) OR there is just too much junk in ur boot dat's giving too much extra weight! Well dat's all I can think of off the teenie weenie brain of mine
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    For trackies who wants to know more about octane booster and which is the better one. Please read up below... Octane Boosters – Which is Best?Posted on 08 August 2008. Tags: MON, octane, octane booster, octane test, RON So are octane boosters all they’re cracked up to be? Furthermore, do they really increase the octane rating as much as advertised? Octane boosters are popular in the performance scene because they often regain power lost through detonation. Sold for around $10 – $50 (£5 – £25) in a handy bottle, they’re a convenient fuel additive and horsepower helper. But with so many brands on the market, you may be fooled into thinking they’re all as effective as one another. Well, they’re not! Differing chemical compounds, additives and even volumes, mixed in with a good percentage of advertising, ‘independent” testing and testimonials all conspire to confuse the consumer away from the single most important point: does it improve the octane rating? Let’s find out the truth. Firstly, Do I Need an Octane Booster? If you haven’t already done so then read our article “Do you really need an octane booster” first. If you have determined the need for an octane booster then continue… For this test we tracked down nine common makes and variations of octane booster; two fuel “additives,” a straight race fuel and a drum of Toluene. Where there were several different “levels” of octane boosters in the one brand, we chose the strongest version. The biggest claims the manufacturers have is the amount of “points” they claim to increase. This can be ambiguous as a “point” can relate to either 1.0 RON (Research Octane Number) octane points, or 0.1RON octane points. The list of entrants in our octane Olympics included: • STP Octane Booster • Wynns Octane 10+ Power Booster • Amsoil Series 2000 Octane Boost • Super 104+ Octane Booster • VP C5 Fuel Additive • ELF HTX 330 Racing Fuel Stabilizer • Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster • PowerFuel Super Street Nitro Based • PowerFuel Max Race Nitro Based • NF Octane Booster Racing Formula • NOS Octane Booster Racing Formula • Toluene • VP Motorsport 103 Unleaded Racing Fuel The Test To conduct these tests we contracted independent laboratory Intertek Testing Services, who would test our products on a “knock engine.” We also had to find a base fuel to add our boosters to so we went to the closest public petrol station, which happened to be Shell. Being a performance-based test, we chose premium unleaded fuel as this represents the most common high performance fuel (i.e.: if you start with regular unleaded, you’re wasting money!) We should add that “some” boosters would have improved the octane rating of regular unleaded proportionately more than our tests with PULP. With a RON rating at a minimum of 95, we first established the exact octane of the PULP. The biggest surprise was our randomly select Shell resulted in a quite high 96.8 RON. We precisely measured and mixed each additive to the PULP, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and poured each into the knock engine’s tank. The compression ratio was then slowly increased until it started to knock, gaining a threshold of detonation and subsequently a maximum RON rating. Of less importance but still worth mentioning is the design of the bottles: since most people will be pouring it straight into a tank, the design of a bottle is important to prevent any spillage on paintwork causing damage. So let’s look at the results! Octane Points As mentioned earlier, it’s very easy to confuse octane ratings as there are a number of separate international standards. MON (Motor Octane Number) is the number derived from a fuel when it’s applied to a test engine run at 3000rpm rather than 600rpm and with higher inlet temps and ignition advance. An known importer of 104+ fuel suggested MON is seen as a more real-world test. Although none of the fuel companies promote the MON figure which is normally between 7 and 10 numbers less than RON (Research Octane Number). Intertek’s Graeme Marks believes RON provides the general public with an idea of which additive works more effectively. And being the most commonly-used reference, we’ve decided to use RON for all our tests. The Results BASELINE OCTANE 96.8 11th PowerFuel Super Street Nitro Based – 946ml treats 35 litres RRP: $35 Octane Improvement: 97.0 (+0.2 RON) Right from the start, we were told PowerFuel’s additives weren’t necessarily octane boosters, but horsepower helpers. We kept this in mind when testing both the products, but of the two, only the Super Street claimed it was specifically designed to increase the octane rating of PULP. With a 20-percent nitro mix, Super Street Nitro-Based still improved octane ever so slightly (0.2RON) but the real test for these two would really come on dyno power runs. 10th PowerFuel MaxRace Nitro Based – 946ml treats 35 litres RRP: $45 Octane Improvement: 97.0 (+0.2 RON) Containing another 15 percent more nitromethane than the SuperStreet formula, MaxRace doesn’t claim to increase octane, but the verbal recommendation was the same, i.e.: its main characteristic is to boost horsepower, not octane. For a fair comparison of these two additives, you need to look at the power they produce. As for octane, it proved very similar toe the SuperStreet formula bumping up octane ever so slightly. 9th STP Octane Booster – 350ml treats 57 litres RRP: $10.95 Octane Improvement: 97.4 (+0.6 RON) One of the cheapest of the group, the STP was also one of the hardest to find. Auto stores either didn’t stock it, or had simply run out! Claiming to increase the octane 2-5 points, in a well-designed-for-pouring bottle, the STP – used in the ratio determined by the label – improved the octane marginally by just over half a point. A little disappointing unless you interpret STP’s claim actually meant 0.2-0.5 points. Then it’s a good result! 8th Wynns Octane 10+ Power Booster – 325ml treats 60 litres RRP: $10 Octane Improvement: 97.6 (+0.8 RON) Wynns was the cheapest of the lot and claimed an increase between two and five points, again not actually listing what a “point” related to. Strangely though the 10+ could indicate 1RON and if this is the case going by our tests it almost lived up to its name. But, not quite, increasing the octane rating by 0.8RON. 7th Super 104+ Octane Boost – 473ml treats 83 litres RRP: $25.95 Octane Improvement: 97.5 (+0.9 RON) The acknowledged winner of all previous testing, Super 104+’s bottle stated we should expect an increase between four and seven point. With a new formula introduced about 12 months ago, identified by an “Eagle” logo on the back of the bottle, the Super 104+ seems to have lost its edge with a marginal gain of just less than 1.0RON. 6th VP Racing C5 – 355ml treats 75 litres RRP: $19.95 Octane Improvement: 98.1 (+1.3 RON) VP has a strong reputation with fuels and its high octane formulas are very popular with drag racers. VP Racing’s C5 Fuel additive lacked information concerning its contents or claims, but the C5 additive still provided a reasonable increase of 1.3RON. 5th NOS Octane Booster Racing Formula – 355ml treats 60 litres RRP: $28 Octane Improvement: 98.6 (+1.8 RON) NOS, a relatively new octane booster, comes in “1/10th” scale bottles designed to emulate the actual nitrous bottles of its successful NOS systems. The Racing Formula is the strongest of three concentrates and containing Hydrotreated Aliphatics and Methylcyclopentadienyl Manganese Tricarbonyl (try saying that 10 times in a row), it contains a lead replacement which NOS claims increases the octane rating by as much as seven points. Obviously not recommended for street use, it also included with a handy pouring spout. In testing, it proved a good result improving the octane rating by almost 2 RON. 4th ELF 330 Fuel Stabilizer – 1000ml treats 50 litres RRP: $45 Octane Improvement: 98.6 (+1.8 RON) “If you spill it on your paintwork, don’t rub it off – rinse it with water” were the words of warning. We were also told to “pre-mix” the ELF before adding it in a fuel tank (which we were doing anyway) as the ELF has a tendency to settle to the bottom of fuel if it’s either not mixed properly or left to sit. This was made somewhat more difficult by the design of the bottle, which tends to drip when pouring. With some nasty stuff known as Aniline, the ELF 330 doesn’t claim any numbers, but provided a decent 1.8 RON point improvement. 3rd Amsoil Series 2000 Octane Boost – 354ml treats 57 litres RRP: $23 Octane Improvement: 98.8 (+2.0 RON) Recommended for off-road and racing use, the Amsoil Series 2000 claimed to increase the octane rating by up to seven points. It came up a little short, but still proved surprisingly good with a full 2.0 RON improvement. This was good enough for the bronze medal in our Octane Booster Olympics. 2nd Toluene (Toluol) – 20 litres treats 100 litres RRP: $48 Octane Improvement: 99.3 (+2.5 RON) Since toluene (pronounced toll-you-een – also known as methyl benzine) isn’t a commercially advertised octane booster, we were unsure of exactly what ratio to mix the clear Toluene to the fuel. From personal experience, and although we had seen high percentages increase octane even further, 30 percent was considered the maximum. Available only from various fuel distributors (it is a special order through services stations), under advice we ran a 20 percent mix (quite a lot more than the others) and saw an impressive improvement of 2.5 RON. This achieved the silver medal. 1st NF Octane Booster Racing Formula – 250 ml treats 80 litres RRP: $29.95 Octane Improvement: 99.6 (+2.8 RON) An Australian-made product from Perth, the NF Octane Booster Racing Formula was the smallest bottle in the field, but looking at the mixing ratio, also the strongest relying on an incredibly small dose – a mere 3 percent! Claiming to increase octane as much as 6.0 RON , NF took the gold medal in a surprising tie. If it were a split decision based on concentration though, it would be the clear winner. 1st Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster – 500 ml treats 60 litres RRP: $20.95 Octane Improvement: 99.6 (+2.8 RON) The Australian-made Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster is the top of the range Nulon fuel product, claiming to boost octane “up to seven number”. The Pro Strength gained a joint gold-medal equalling NF’s 2.8RON increase. Race Fuel VP Motorsport 103 fuel – Used straight fuel (20-litre minimum) RRP: $70 Octane Improvement: 107 (+10.2RON) Purely for interest, we also decided to test a straight racing fuel. While there are many available (such as ELF) for no particular reason we chose VP. The highest octane VP fuel which was still totally street-legal was the Motorsport 103. Working out at $3.50 per litre and “designed for maximum power and throttle response”, the VP was very impressive with an octane rating of 107RON – more than 10RON points more than PULP. Obviously more expensive than the boosters but if octane is problem, racing fuel like VP may be the answer. Further Information As the name suggests, a knock engine is designed to test the detonation or anti-knock rating of fuels and fuel additives. It’s a slow revving engine capable of running most fossil fuels through an adjustable compression ratio. As the comp ratio increases, it accurately measures the intensity of the knock and determines the fuel’s octane rating. The world standard is a one-cylinder two-valve four-stroke engine with exposed valve gear. Archaic in appearance, a “carby” is fed from any one of three fuel bowls to allow three different fuels to be run back to back. The mixture is actually controlled via gravity feed and by raising or lowering the float level of each bowl! Run under load via a belt-drive linking the flywheel and load system, it ensures a real world situation and ensuring minimal variation between tests, oil temperature, intake air density and air temperature are all monitored and controlled. The engine is somewhat agricultural; however its unique ability to vary the compression ratio while running between 5.0:1 and 15.0:1 is quite amazing. The operator simply winds a handle and the entire head and cylinder assembly moves up and down relative to the crankshaft. A knock sensor measures both the frequency and intensity of the ping (as displayed on a knock metre). Figures are then cross-referenced on a chart using the information provided by the knock meter, plus the height of the head and barrel. Finally, knock intensity is figured in and the fuel’s octane rating determined. Taking two hours to warm, this $200,000 engine is super robust and rarely needs rebuilding. Individual tests can then proceed at approximately $120 per test sample. Being subjected to so much detonation, you can only imagine how much maintenance an engine of this nature must need. Interestingly, this isn’t the case as the piston and rod assembly are rejects from a monstrous ship engine (just kidding)! They’re huge with an incredibly thick piston crown contributing to a combined gudgeon pin and piston weight of 1794 grams! Likewise, the rod weighs an astonishing 1929 grams. The bottom line is these engines which have replacement value of over $200,000 and almost never require rebuilding. Dyno Boosters Ultimately, the role of an octane booster is to regain horsepower lost through detonation or retarded ignition timing due to detonation. But two of our products, the nitro additives, weren’t specifically designed to increase octane. Instead, they contained a mix of nitromethane (the petrol Top Fuellers run) in a “percentage” concentrate. Power Fuel’s Super Street and Max Race additives had 20-percent and 35-percent nitro respectively, and the Australian importer specifically claimed they would increase power, not necessarily octane. So, we took those two products and the two best-performing octane boosters to MRT Performance for some Dyno Dynamics dyno testing. Interestingly, we were going to use MRT’s rally Civic, which normally runs on avgas. On PULP – even with the booster – it was pinging too much, so a Jap-spec EF Honda Civic was used with a 1.6-litre VTEC and about 10.0:1 comp ratio. The graphs tell the story though, and to be fair to the products, with variables such as heat soak, the results weren’t as conclusive as could be gained from an engine dyno. But that is not to say the products don’t work. As our test proves, they do, but it’s not as easily measured on a chassis dyno. Plus the Civic had no detonation problems on PULP, further hampering the apparent effectiveness of the boosters. Summary Both the Nulon Pro Strength and the NF Racing Formula rated the best octane boosters in our test. And considering that less NF was needed than Nulon, it evens out a little with a slightly higher cost. Still, both proved extremely effective at increasing octane, even outranking Toluene, which needs much higher levels of concentration. The VP Motorsport 103 fuel was an interesting exercise, and if a little more effort (i.e.: buying it from the selected outlets) is worth the octane, it’s a good representation of what to expect from straight racing fuel. We hope you found this useful. NF Octane Booster can be ordered from here. The FuelTechExperts Team This info is extracted from: http://www.fueltechexperts.com/2008/08/08/octane-boosters-which-is-best/
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    What positive aspect to put a turbo in a NA ride. Paiseh, cant't think any. Negative - burn ur pocket, higher maintenance, illegal, drive with fear, engine tolerate level affected..... Save the $$$ and buy urself a turbo car lah than spending $$$ making ur ride illegal....
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    Here is the last trackday that I went b4 smacking into the wall (T14)...went into the turn too hot ended up spinning out & hitting the entire left side of the car (repaired...no chassis or suspension bits damage, just replacing the panels, both bumpers & respray). Corners like T9, T14 & T15, the car tend to be too bouncy out of the corner during throttle on as the rear inner tire got lifted off the ground (anti-roll bar was too tight, cusco 22mm set at tightest) & the differential working to transfer Tq to the rear outer tire. Hence the 'bouncing' sensation at those turns. Notice the engine sound during the point when I accelerated out....thats the issue that I'd mentioned earlier Gotta to soften the rear anti-roll bar. Coilovers settings were 7/16 front & 9/16 rear. Both compression & rebound were of the same value.
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    Please stay on topic of cheaters and dirty buyers. Let's keep this thread sweet and simple and straight to the point on these people.
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    When I was shopping around for my first car in Singapore, I set out for a nice, "slightly sporty", 4 door sedan; my only real criteria was that she needs to be a manual - because I really don't enjoy driving "slush box" torque converter type automatics (the new double clutch SST types are a different story for a future thread!) ... While shopping around, I stayed clear of Subarus because I felt that they looked quirky, sounded "funny" and had pretty drab interiors; and because my better half would scoff and tell me to "stay away from that Ah Beng car" whenever she saw the hood scoops on Scoobys. I agreed... till that one day, after a lot of persuasion, I gave in to a persistent sales pitch to "drive it, then decide" ... There was no turning back after that first drive, once the turbo kicked in and turned her rumbling flat 4 into a growling thrill machine! No words needed to be exchanged after that drive... my ear - to - ear grin told that salesman and my partner all they needed to know! All those things that I used to turn me off about Scoobys, suddenly started to turn me on... and being a straight guy, naturally, "that Ah Beng car" was christened "Ah Lian"! Hellloooo Singapore! - T u r b o C -
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    The Hard & Ugly Truth of $140 & A Engine Block... We Must Learn the Ugly Truth From The One You Called Friend or Brother... You Take The Risk, U Risk Losing Your Friend & Money Or Say NO & You Can SEE The Ugly Side Of Your Friend But You Dont Loose Your Money. Where $ is concerned. Money ($) dont friend Your Friendship Or Brotherhood nor Business. Golden Rules. 1) No Money Stand One Side. Or Fcuk Off... 2) Always SAY NO To Installments (Its A Total LIE) ! 3) Any Deposit Less Than 75% = Fcuk Off... 4) SAY NO Fcuking Bank Transfer (Its A Total LIE) ! 5) Cash Deposit With No Full Figure SHOWING Already In Your Account LIVE or 75% Deposit = No Deliver Of Goods.
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    Everyone, This a@#hole is the one who cheated me as well as some others bros/sis from various car forums, one of them is Civicfd-sg.com We have tried to contact him but he has changed his numbers - estimated 5 different numbers. I have also warned him not to mess up since he told us his poor state, we pity him and give him a chance to pay us back in instalments. Now, he's MIA and despite we have tried to post in forum to warn him but he still fails to contact us back. I believe most of you are aware what he has done. On our site, we have reported to the Police and investigation is on process. If you have come across this scumbag, please DO NOT DEAL WITH HIIM. He's well-known BULLSHITTERS. And for you - Chris or whatever shits.... NOW, you gonna pay us back in FULL AMOUNT. NO MORE INSTALMENTS OR NEGOITATION.
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    BKS solved my 1 month of mystery cracking noise under my chassis. Very glad Alan and his guys too more than 3 hours hoisting my car up and down for so many countless times, testdrove my car everytime he worked on something. Eventually hit the spot on that mysterious part that causes the noise. The previous workshop that i went to, gave up after 30 minutes and decided to bill be $20 so that they can " gladly " stop working on my car. Not very professional. Recently, BKS also really help me out during a saturday late evening. Found out some safety compromising problem with my brake calipers and urgently requires immediately attention. However it was too late and they were closing for the day. Called the wrong number to woodlands office when i was intending to go to AMK instead since i stayed nearby. ( got the AMK and wdlands number wrongly ) Boss at woodlands was kind and helpful enough to call me back quickly enough, asked me to go down AMK. He had asked his staff Ah Nick ( cant remember his exact name, really ) to stay back to wait for me. So i guess i will be returning to them again. However workshop experience varies, so there is no best or good workshop. As long as the money you spend there , you find it reasonable or you are happy with the work, consider that " good workshop" Each has their own taste. Some may like the hospitality and comfort sofa. Some may like the noise and grease. Just like some men like skinny girls and some like fleshy ones... ^^
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    Huge thank you to everyone who made this mega gathering a success! The gathering was awesome with beautiful scoobies gracing this event. Big love to everyone and the awesome convoy in by the frosty brothers ♥ !! (highrider <3 <3) Best wishes to the Subaru Family in the year of the snake! Health and wealth x888%! Huat ah!! Special thanks to all the photographers for capturing memories of this event (therightwrong,9tro)! Stay tune for pictures!
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    Format Car Year and Model: 2007 IMPREZA TS Rim model and specs: VOLK TE37 17x7.5, 5x100 Tyre model and specs: AD 08, 215/45/17 Camber: 2.2 FRONT 1.8 REAR Fender Mods: NA . 1.5MM SPACER FRONT & REAR Suspension: API TYPE RA 10KG F/ 10KG R.
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    As mentioned by the rest. I like to highlight the differences. WRX's front LCA are steel as opposed to STI's aluminium (nt sure abt 04, but 05 STI onwards definitely are aluminium, except 07 STI is steel). There is a slight weight advantage for the alu front LCA (lower ctrl arm) over the WRX's steel. The alignment specs for the front LCA are different. I am nt sure abt the WRX, but for STI, they have the following alignment geometry...iirc, front camber is -0.3, castor 4deg (07 STI is even lesser...iirc). The CASTOR for the WRX/STI makes a big difference in the handling department. Thats when Spec C's front LCA triumphs over regular STI's. Spec C's front LCA rear bushings gave it additional castor over the stock STI (not sure how much) which in turn leads to better ctrl over the dynamic camber of the Subaru's inverted macpherson strut design (macpherson struts are known to have poor dynamic camber as compared to double wish-bone designs like the Honda's). Thus, Spec C will outperform the regular STI in this area. However, not to despair, ALK are created to solve this problem. Whiteline ALK (comfort/normal/race bushings) & Perrin PSRS (positive steering response system came into the picture. They are several other brands out there that does this as well such as SuperPros but they do not create that much CASTOR as compared to whiteline's (not sure abt Perrin). Whiteline Race ALK gave the stock STI front LCA additional castor of 0.5deg, bumping up the overall to 4.5deg. With that, you will notice your front wheels being 'push' forward from its original position (and now, lowest part of the car being the U-subframe). Do research on NASIOC/IWSTI for additional castor mod. I did not do the add castor mod so I gotten 4.5deg castor on my setup (some coilovers feature additional castor adjustment such as Tein SRC as mentioned in my post on the Suspension topic). All in all, Subaru's will benefit from this additional castor on the track. Now, the rear lateral links are different for the WRX & STI. WRX's width is shorter as compared to 05 STI's rear lateral links (aft 05 STI, they are widened). Hence, the extra rear fender on the stock STI bodykit from 05 onwards (& different bumper when compared to WRX). WRX's steel vs STI's alu, again, featured on the rear suspension bits. Nt sure abt the trailing arm for WRX though. For additional info, S203, S204 & Type RA-R's rear lateral links & trailing arms are different from stock STI's. Likewise for sway-bar & endlinks. WRX came with C-shaped endlinks as compared to the STI (I cant articulate the shape of the STI..haha). The S203, S204 & Type RA-R are the first production cars to be fitted with pillowball suspension bits! With that, that will explain why they are superior over the regular STI's handling in getting the rear of the car to 'ROTATE' better on the track (lets not bring 06STI's DCCD in the picture) Picture speaks a thousand words. WRX's rear lateral links (GT-SPEC REAR T BRACE NOT INCLUDED). Note the rear C-links from the 2nd pic. (as a result, the width of WRX's rear antiroll bar width is different) Pic taken off the net. stock/regular STI's rear lateral links Note the design of the portion where the 3 squares is the the location of the endlinks (those are kartboy endlinks). S203, S204 & Type RA-R (iirc only S204 & RA-R came with HID self levelling, hence explaining the extra piece of metal protruding at the centre portion) S203's rear lateral links without the self-levelling HID metal extension With the difference in location of which the endlinks are mounted on the s203, s204 & RA-R, the width of the ARB is also different (regular WRX's length fits in here, can't use STI arb). This is what I found out after learning the hardway... . I will post a pic of mine when the car is hoisted up the next time (including the front LCA portion with ALK) LASTLY, they differentials are different! Thats why JDM-spec STI will outperform US/Euro-spec/International-Spec STI as their centre differential splits power differently (iirc, JDM-spec 04 & 05 split is 35:65 & 06 onwards is 50:50). MI spec 2L STi came without DCCD is just close to Evo's RS spec (mechanical LSD vs non-DCCD's AP Suretrac LSD). With DCCD, the car definitely performs differently (haven drive 1 yet so cant comment, I heard from friends that they will cause snap oversteer if off-throttle during mid corners). WRX's open differential is a huge disadvantage to its handling performance which many had complained abt 'washing' out(understeer) during the turns in. Unless you wanna fork out additional cost of replacing/upgrading the LSDs (3 altogether, front, centre & rear)....thats a diff story.
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    Bro... Hawkeye onwards are mostly 2.5L. This is the Euro model which most of us own in Singapore as they are brought in by MI... JDM is quite rare in singapore becoz they cost at least $10K+ more from PI... so most of us still buy from MI Well said guys ... from all the Old Birds comment i guess u shd have more or less concluded ur answer... Just to share my 2 cents... i own a 07 hawkeye rex and track very frequent for the past 3 years be it up north or PG... It has been a painful process to me, as to convert my rex to what the Spec C does. Till today i'm only halfway there. Like the Old Birds have pointed out there are 1000 and 1 difference. So don't think its only the power difference. Power is very easy to get, you can mod anytime with money. Just need to change one bigger turbo and a good tune, the diff can be more than 60hp from stock. But when it goes to Handling... this is the part where the rex fails... well what I pay is what I get... so I have to suck thumb and accept it... Handling mod is not something I can achieve overnight as there are too many parts to learn about the usage, the pro and cons it will affect ur ride, ur chassis, bodyroll, weight transfer, tyre selection, ride comfort and etc etc etc... it becomes a individual thing. some can take harsh ride, some prefer comfort and some hardcore one goes all out to change everything just to get ur car to turn on track but in the end does it work... I don't want to confuse you further w too much story on my side. So think about what u really want out of your next ride and then decide. Cheers!
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    Can't believe it's been more than 10 yrs. Shit stirring from Delphi boards to the previous platform, and now a new board linked to fbook. What's lacking is the passionate and vibrant community spirit of yesteryears that makes a forum feel alive. In any case, congrats on the REBIRTH!