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Everything posted by d3vil0gy

  1. 1. You will be able to hit that region with a tune. Do note 280hp is at crank. At wheels you will see approx 220whp-230whp. 2. Don't waste time with "Chips". Go for Opensource reflash or ECUTek reflash. 3. Yours is 2.0 Auto. Usable RPM is not much, 4 Speed. 18g and above you have power, but only for the last 200-300rpm (6,800) and then your car shifts out of power band again. What for? No point. Daily driving you will hate the car. 2.0 on a 16g is considered laggy already. As many other bros replied to you in another thread, go VF22 (largest oem turbo with minimal lag) for power, VF34 for response kick, twin scroll for almost lag free driving. VF34 and TD05 16/18/20g is very different in size. As i have mentioned in another thread, many 2.0A rexes in SG are running STOCK turbo and clocking much better timings in the track than a 2.0A rex with a bigger turbo. Many downsized and improved timing. Note: If you are considering between a tune and changing a turbo, do note when you change turbo, you still have to tune.
  2. Still under warranty? Any CEL error light coming on? From the way it sounds, it seems like your torque convertor is out. Still under warranty?
  3. sorry bro will be out of town this weekend =(
  4. And... your tuner should be able to answer you. From the tuning charts, data logging and ECU correction, a good tuner can identify leaks, sensor malfunctions, wrong inputs, tuning corrections, injector scaling.. etc. From a simple datalog, most hardware issues can be identified. Which workshop you go?
  5. 1. Vacuum leak 2. BOV leak 3. Dirty maf sensor 4. Dirty fuel filter 5. Old spark plugs 6. Failing o2 sensor BTW, you NEED a bov. By capping the BOV mounts, you need to cap the vacuum line that goes to the BOV. I suspect the leak might be there. And your mech thinking is totally out (may i suggest a better mechanic for our sensitive cars), how can the air escape out of the air filter?? It has to route back pass the turbo again which is impossible, turbo is spinning and pressurizing one direction only. Sorry to say, air will never flow in reverse in the turbo. Your turbo will die a slow death.
  6. There is no full legal catback exhaust except for the STI Hatchbacks. For your model, the only approved exhaust system is an axleback (supersprint/remus etc.)
  7. flatbed is approx 120-150. subaru awd ensures so that when one wheel is spinning, all other 3 spins asymmetrically. If you were to jam stop 2 front wheels and leave the rear 2 moving, where is all those force going to be distributed to? Diffs and transmission system.
  8. d3vil0gy

    Almost newbie

    You can drop a rex block in no problem. Short term is big money and downtime for swap, long term is high cost of maintenence and legality issues. Those who went down this route will start advising you "1.6 don't mod, wanna spend the money for power? save up and buy a rex instead. cheaper."
  9. Inside your fenders, roll it flat. can do at lye design. no more rashing, unless you run rims wider than 9.5 and offsets more than +35.
  10. Your cats will be found in the up-pipe and mid-pipe. No cats in extractors.
  11. if you are intending to hit the tracks, most auto rexes who hit the track run stock turbos. best responsive, no overheating issues, no overheating transmission oil issues. If you are in it for power, vf34 is the most popular choice. TD05 is larger than the 34, and TD05 will give you insane lag on your auto gearbox, you won't be shifting in the power bands. STI tmic is the best choice. Open pod is fine. If you are going for 34 don't forget an uprated fuel pump(255l) and larger injectors (550cc) Most rexes if not all, previous owner would have already decatted it. You can get your workshop to check. However if it is not, and you decide to go ahead, be sure to get the resistor, or your CEL will turn on. You need to get a tune once done.
  12. Wyven, nope, wont fit. The measurements are way different, (length, width etc.) The amount of money you spend to customize and finally get it on, still, won't give you the hard boxer notes.
  13. 2.0 don't go FMIC unless you planning on running any turbos larger than a td05-20g. Which of course, on a 2.0A, will be detrimental to performance. 2.0A - 16g is sufficient, anything more is too laggy for a daily, and unresponsive for track. Stick to TMIC (Sti ones are best bang for buck) Extractor and midpipe - illegal. Many went this route, many turned back and regretted. Go for a street legal catback exhaust instead. (Buy used from WTS folder, save some dollars, and use it for a tune)
  14. your tyres not protruding out that much, how come rashing? did you roll fenders flat liao? I'm on 2.2 front, 2.0 rear. Daily and track. 255 tyres on 18x9.5, no rash.
  15. any awd car should always be on a flat bed. If you jack up your 1.6, and turn the front left wheel, you will notice all your other wheels spinning "inversely", accordingly to which wheel is spinning, on the opposite side. (be it in neutral, free gear, N, clutched in etc. etc.)
  16. In manual mode, try pushing it all the way to rear, and drive around in a tight circle a few times to see if it loosens up. What symptoms are you getting? Binding? Lock-let go-lock-let-go or permanent lock that you can feel your car slowing down?
  17. My strong recommendation, Bring to a PRO-SCOOBY workshop (cant emphasize more on pro-scooby), let them check through hardware, then get their in-house tuner or your preferred tuner to plug into your ECU and data log/see your AF etc. etc. If required, tune it.
  18. If the wear is not so bad, 99.5 is usually the recommended way to go. If wear is bad, normally builders tend to bore and sleeve, and use back a 99.5. Some builders opt a different approach, bad wear but no sleeving, 100+mm
  19. SSQV is notorious for venting out air in excess. Each time it vents, your ecu runs excessively rich, hence the after-fire. This temporary rich condition can stall your car when you clutch it My good guess is your ride is 06 and above. Newer rexes run electronic throttle (Drive by wire) - E Throttle and VTA BOV (Especially SSQV) is a very bad mismatch. Is your ride tuned? With your exhaust and SSQV, untuned, you are running extremely rich till your car stalls - long run you will foul your spark plugs. Even with tuning, the temporary richness caused when your BOV vents, CANNOT be compensated totally. SSQV have been proven by many motoring enthusiast, that it sounds nice, and that is all it does. SSQV creates alot of lag between gear shifts and is detrimental to response and performance. Those that are running SSQV, have customized to re-circulate back.
  20. As bro D_Fntic has suggested, Let's start the ball rolling for this Friday! West Side Scooby Meet 14th December 2013 Location: Dairy Farm Same carpark Scoobie love: Same as always, sponsors for drinks/snacks/ etc. are very much appreciated! Agenda: Meetup/Photo taking/TCSS/Washing car/ etc. 1. D_Fntic 2. Insignia 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.
  21. Thread closed, please use the "West Side Scooby" thread
  22. Both almost the same.. but workshops tend to favor cp pistons. Slightly more exp if I am not wrong. According to some workshops, cp tend to expand nicely which doesnt consume engine oil. But of course, builder is very important. Must know how to measure the cyclinders. Bore/sleeve if necessary.
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