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RentaBass last won the day on January 17 2015

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  1. I have a friend looking for the above mentioned item, please whatsapp or sms me at 96806359 if you happen to be selling it. Cheers
  2. Tire Reviewed: Toyo T1-Sport Tire Size: 235/45R17 Test Vehicle: FD2R Driving Style: Spirited with Occasional Track Session Dry Handling: Feedback from the tire is pretty good - sidewalls are reasonably stiff and fast direction changes on S-bends are dispatched without much drama. There is enough flex in the sidewalls to allow for some degree of forgiveness on the limit, while still maintaining sufficient rigidity to handle high speed sweepers. Grip levels are decent when cold and pretty good when they are up to operating temperature, with plenty of feedback all the way till the limit. These tires are confidence inspiring and will allow you to balance the car on the limit of adhesion, without much fear of sudden snapping. Heat handling capability of these tires is commendable for a street tire, having handled a 3hr track day at Pasir Gudang without much fuss. Dry Braking: Dry braking is good, with treshold braking exhibiting only a slight tendency to wag the rear wheels. The tires offer plenty of grip when braking hard, even for late braking manouevres. Braking feel is great with sufficient feedback to make trail braking quite easy. Wet Handling: Wet grip is decent, with no dramas experienced in my current experience of using these tires. Heavy rain has not posed a major problem to them and they traverse huge puddles without major pulling of the steering wheel - the car will feel like it slows down a bit, but hold the steering wheel firmly and the car will stay true to its course. Slightly damp tarmac at the track was also dispatched with ease once the tires warmed up sufficiently. There was enough feedback to know when the tires felt like they were going to transit into a slide. Wet Braking: No emergency situations encountered, but braking in the rain has not caused heart attacks - ABS lockups have been few and far between. Treadwear: Tires have been used for daily driving for about 15,000 to 20,000km (-2,2deg camber front, -2.0 deg camber rear, zero toe all around) and subjected to about 20+ to 30 laps at Pasir Gudang on a recent 3hr track day. Rear tires still have plenty of meat left, front tires have plenty of scars to show, but still look like they have about 30 to 40% of life left. I'd say the durability of the compound is pretty decent. Road Noise: They're not the quietest tires out there, but I have to say that they're probably the quietest performance tires I've used thus far. I rotated the track-beaten front tires to the back and these tires still don't sound that much louder than they did before the track session. Two thumbs up for a good all-round tire.
  3. I think the WRX gearbox has taller gearing, so it is not really that suited for NA usage. The stock TS gearbox works fine with an EJ25 SOHC.
  4. 9" width rims should be able to accomodate 235 section width tires with no issue, 225 section width tires with some stretching.
  5. For PCD 5x100, it's generally quite difficult to get wheels with offsets more aggressive than +32 - most of the bigger brands only manufacture wheel fitments for known cars, so 5x100 with +30 odd offset are usually meant either for 1st Gen Audi TTs or Toyota Celicas. I think your best bet would be to check if Rota has such fitments available.
  6. I would not suggest using any spacers with the stock bolts. Even if you have enough rounds of thread to hold the wheels firmly, do take note that the Subaru's thread spacing is 1.25, vs the usual 1.5 of most other Japanese cars. This makes them much more prone to breakage and cross-threading - I've seen many Subarus with jammed bolts. If the difference is just about 5mm, I always feel it's safer to run another set of wheels with proper offset. If not, just go the whole hog and use long studs, which would allow you to use 10, 15mm and perhaps even thicker spacers. Do note that if you go this route, it's always recommended that you get your spacers properly custom-machined, so that there is NO free-play. Most people assume that the weight of the vehicle is completely held by the studs, and that the fit of the wheels on the centre hub collar is merely to reduce vibration. This couldn't be further from the truth. The whole weight of the car is actually borne by the connection between the wheels and the centre hub collar - the nuts and studs are actually just to ensure that the wheels are centred over the centre hub collar, NOT to bear the load. I've seen and read about cases where cars have sheared the studs clean off the hub assembly, because of free-play between the wheels and the centre hub collar. If any tire shop tells you that this free-play is okay and that it's only vibration that's the issue, GET THE HELL OUT OF THERE - your life is a lot more important than the time and money you save running around to get a proper long-stud assembly fitted. I work in the tire industry, so this is not my opinion - I've seen far too many cross-threaded and stripped studs due to this matter. I'm merely sharing this as public awareness, as I have seen too many errant dealers allowing customers to drive around with improperly fitted wheels.
  7. Tire Reviewed: Roadstone N6000 Tire Size: 235/45R17 Driving Style: Spirited with Occasional Track Session Dry Handling: Sidewalls are a tad softer than what I'm used to, with tendency to tramline at higher pressures (i.e. 240kpa and above). The tramlining is less obvious once the tires are scrubbed in and the grip levels increase too. I've found that optimal grip is achieved on the track with the tires running at 220kpa (hot), as they have a tendency to roll over into the shoulders and slide out when pushed. They are VERY progressive on the limit and are relatively easy to feel and control, with the only real drawback being the soft sidewalls - weight shifts are slower, so the tires take longer to settle before you can pile on the power (floor the throttle before the tires settle and the car understeers), but the understeer is easily controlled by backing off the throttle a little to get the car to place more weight on the front. They're no RE070 by any means in terms of absolute grip, but they're superb for the price and throughout the 3 hr session at SIC, they held up well and didn't grease up like I thought they would - 2.5 hrs into the track day and I was still pushing the car hard, without feeling like the rubber had turned into soap. Dry Braking: Braking is incredible for a tire of this price range - I could stand on the brakes at about 100m flying into SIC T1 (at some point, bro 320bhp who was putting pressure on me from behind reported that I was braking at 50m for T1, T9 and T15) and the tires would just chirp a little. This braking performance remained unchanged throughout the track day, allowing me to brake consistently at the same spots. The same is true for street driving - emergency braking manouevres are usually dispatched without much drama. When the tires do start to lock up a little, it's easily controlled by backing off the slow pedal a wee bit. Good stuff. Wet handling: Aquaplaning resistance is commendable - you still feel the road when traversing large puddles, but the car does feel like it slows down. However, I don't think I've felt the steering wheel wrench out of my hands before, so that's a good sign. Feedback remains good even on damp surfaces, with breakaway being progressive. I have to admit that I don't drive that fast when it's wet, but these tires don't give me a heart attack when it really pours down. Wet Braking: Wet braking is pretty good as well - I have not really encountered any dramatic instances with these tires. Emergency braking sometimes causes ABS lockup right at the bottom of the brake pedal travel, but backing off the slow pedal a little bit will allow the car to regain braking grip. Treadwear: The above photo was taken after about 20,000km of street driving, trip to and from SIC and 3 hours on the track. They still look like they have about 40 - 50% left in them, so I think they're pretty damn durable. Road noise: Not unreasonably noisy - they do emit some road noise, which gets louder over rough patches of road, but it's nothing that'll really give you a splitting headache. I also was fortunate enough to be able to test these tires on a damp Pasir Gudang circuit, with one medium sized puddle at the far bank of Turn 1. After warming up, the tires were actually pretty grippy on the wet tarmac, with very progressive braking and cornering limits. The tires always felt connected with the road surface and I could easily feel when they were letting go or when the ABS was kicking in due to locking up (overbraking). At one point, I tried WOTing the car out of Turn 1 and traversing the puddle - the steering wheel did pull a little bit, but I held firm and the car managed to pull through without much drama. That said, I could actually feel the car slow down a bit, so I believe if the puddle was bigger, there might have been a chance that the car would have slowed down enough to be unsettled. All in all, I'm really happy with these tires so far and hope to be able to test out the Roadstone N8000 tires when these have given up the ghost.
  8. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=754710 This should provide all the information you need, and then some.
  9. Cheaper solution is to: 1) brake earlier into the corner, so you don't settle the car as much. AT gearbox always has lag selecting gears, so it's not a good idea to brake too late while turning - like 320bhp said, before the correct gear is selected, you'll end up in too high a gear, without enough torque to give you traction, hence the loss of traction on OR off throttle 2) trail brake with the left foot - you can brake into the corner, then dance a bit to get your left foot on the brake pedal to keep weight on the front tires while you pile on the power with your right foot. This can help you ensure that you've got drive to the wheels to maintain traction, while trail braking with the left foot will allow you to maintain weight on the front tires for better turn-in. Do note that this will take a whole lot of practice and may not be too kind to your torque convertor. Oh yes, both alternatives actually don't cost you any money.
  10. The spring stiffener limits the full travel of the spring - I'd imagine very strange handling characteristics when the spring's compression is suddenly limited by the stiffener.
  11. Glad you're enjoying the seats bro...my wife was bitching like mad about the stock seats when I put them back prior to selling the car lol...
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