dark magician

Converting TS drum to disc brakes

202 posts in this topic

sorry, was super bz at amk, couldn't find time to visit bms...

 

so bro rentabass, by what i deduce from what u said, the handbrake mechanism is linked to the rotor?

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sorry, was super bz at amk, couldn't find time to visit bms...

 

so bro rentabass, by what i deduce from what u said, the handbrake mechanism is linked to the rotor?

 

Not sure, but when I observed the brake installation, it looks like the handbrake is actually housed within the bell (if that's what you call it) of the rear rotors.

 

They're actually brake shoes that are activated by a cable that is connected to the handbrake lever, so no fluid is actually involved. That's why I think it's separate.

 

If you look at the rear rotors of most cars, you'll notice that the centre portion of the rotors are larger than the front rotors...I think it's to allow for the space to house the handbrake shoes and mechanism.

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Not sure, but when I observed the brake installation, it looks like the handbrake is actually housed within the bell (if that's what you call it) of the rear rotors.

 

They're actually brake shoes that are activated by a cable that is connected to the handbrake lever, so no fluid is actually involved. That's why I think it's separate.

 

If you look at the rear rotors of most cars, you'll notice that the centre portion of the rotors are larger than the front rotors...I think it's to allow for the space to house the handbrake shoes and mechanism.

 

You've got it all rite mate icon_exclaim.gif

 

There's very little chance the front 1pot caliper can be moved to the rear.Juz take a look at the braking area for the rear rotor.Its abt half the braking area of the front brake rotor.

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Just fitted a pair of Forester front brake onto my TS.

 

Did some weighing and now sharing with you guys.

 

TS brake each(caliper or rotor) 5kg. Total stock brake

 

system weighs 20kg.

 

Now...Forester caliper each weighs 6kg and each rotor weighs

 

7.5kg. New total weight is 27kg.

 

Funny thing is only feel a slight improvement on braking.

 

Could it be TS brake fiuld being DOT3? I know Forester

 

being DOT4. Think I should change to DOT4 too?

 

Regards,

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Hi guys,

 

If i'm getting the LG 2,1 pot...the second hand roughly willl cost how much?? and wat will i need to get from the buyer??

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Just fitted a pair of Forester front brake onto my TS.

 

Did some weighing and now sharing with you guys.

 

TS brake each(caliper or rotor) 5kg. Total stock brake

 

system weighs 20kg.

 

Now...Forester caliper each weighs 6kg and each rotor weighs

 

7.5kg. New total weight is 27kg.

 

Funny thing is only feel a slight improvement on braking.

 

Could it be TS brake fiuld being DOT3? I know Forester

 

being DOT4. Think I should change to DOT4 too?

 

Regards,

 

Are you feeling a marginal increase in braking accompanied by a slightly spongey pedal?

 

If you are feeling this immediately after the conversion, it's possible that the pistons have not extended out towards the rotors properly yet - These pistons have to be compressed back into their sleeves in order for the calipers to fit over the rotors, so they'll take some time to extend out again.

 

Give them some time, they should fully extend after some firm braking over the course of one or two weeks.

 

As for the braking performance, the real difference is only felt when you brake really hard, otherwise it's just a slight perceivable difference in initial bite and a marked improvement in brake modulation.

 

Brake responsibly!

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Hi guys,

 

If i'm getting the LG 2,1 pot...the second hand roughly willl cost how much?? and wat will i need to get from the buyer??

 

U refering to buyer or seller?

 

If u r lucky enuf, the seller will include the handbrake mechanism.

 

Price is ,of course, very subjective.Depends on condition and the 'package' offered.

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Hi guys,

 

If i'm getting the LG 2,1 pot...the second hand roughly willl cost how much?? and wat will i need to get from the buyer??

 

The cost usually depends on the condition and also the seller (cos it'll probably depend on how many hands it's passed through already), so it's hard for us to comment on this.

 

As for the parts, you'll have to make sure you have:

 

1) Brake calipers

 

2) Brake rotors

 

3) Brake pads

 

4) Brake hoses (Mine came with hoses, can anyone confirm this?)

 

If the seller is also selling with handbrake mechanism, think you'll also be getting:

 

1) Backing plates for rear rotors

 

2) Handbrake cable

 

That's all I can remember for now (Sorry, but I've really got a memory span of a hamster)

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Not possible to install front TS disc to Rear.. front disc brakes usually consist of only the brake calipers etc.. rear disc usually consist of brake calipers as well as a mini drum in the middle... different makes may make it differently.. maybe I outdated.. but from what I understand, drum brakes usually on rear wheels are activated only when we pull our handbrakes. (do correct me if I am wrong). Dun think stock TS have additional brake hose for the rear to install brake disc. So I guess there is more to it than meets the eye... icon_rolleyes.gif

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Are you feeling a marginal increase in braking accompanied by a slightly spongey pedal?

 

If you are feeling this immediately after the conversion, it's possible that the pistons have not extended out towards the rotors properly yet - These pistons have to be compressed back into their sleeves in order for the calipers to fit over the rotors, so they'll take some time to extend out again.

 

Give them some time, they should fully extend after some firm braking over the course of one or two weeks.

 

As for the braking performance, the real difference is only felt when you brake really hard, otherwise it's just a slight perceivable difference in initial bite and a marked improvement in brake modulation.

 

Brake responsibly!

 

The workshop just open nipple and let it drip for say 20 sec and close it.

 

Thats all! I tot someone should sit inside and pump several times and hold it there. Then open nipple to free up air if any.

 

did a few very hard braking at 60km/h at my office carpark(tarmac surface). Felt good with authority. Car din sway. Braking distance say 1 metre with ABS in action. Tot of converting the rear to Forester rear disc too.

 

He's selling me a pair of rotors and calipers. I need to get its' handbrake mechanism and ??? Please advice.

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The workshop just open nipple and let it drip for say 20 sec and close it.

 

Thats all! I tot someone should sit inside and pump several times and hold it there. Then open nipple to free up air if any.

 

did a few very hard braking at 60km/h at my office carpark(tarmac surface). Felt good with authority. Car din sway. Braking distance say 1 metre with ABS in action. Tot of converting the rear to Forester rear disc too.

 

He's selling me a pair of rotors and calipers. I need to get its' handbrake mechanism and ??? Please advice.

 

Monitor your brakes for a bit longer, then perhaps get them to check again when you convert your rear brakes (assuming you do it soon). If you're still not satisfied with the answer you're getting, get a second opinion from a trusted workshop.

 

I did that for suspension problems and ended up never going back to my previous workshop.

 

As for purchasing the Frostie rear brake set, you also need backing plates and handbrake cable to convert. Check with any pro-scooby workshop, they will be able to advise you.

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On the backing plate and HB mechanism, can the Legacy HB Mech be used to mount WRX 4-2pot brakes? Or do you have to change to WRX's HB mech?

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On the backing plate and HB mechanism, can the Legacy HB Mech be used to mount WRX 4-2pot brakes? Or do you have to change to WRX's HB mech?

 

Not too sure, but from observing the installation process of my brakes, it seems the Handbrake cable is probably something that's universal fitment - even if you use the longer cables from the older Legacy, like I did, they workshop should be able to fit a spacer to make it work. I think.

 

As for the backing plates, I suspect they have to correspond to the brakes (i.e. WRX brakes require WRX backing plates), because the WRX rear rotors appear to be larger and might not fit the Legacy backing plates.

 

Best to get confirmation from workshops. Do post your findings when you do, I'm sure many other bros would benefit from the info.

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IMHO, TS to fit with WRX brakes is overkill and will add weight.

 

Of cause 4p2p has a good braking effect... but for TS ride.... needed meh?

 

Below is the converted hp from PS (taken from Hagrid website)

 

TS = 95ps (93.67hp)

 

WRX 2.5 = 230Pps (226.78hp)

 

Legacy 2.0R = 165ps (162.69hp)

 

Forester = 158hp (155.79hp)

 

Why do you need a 4p2p WRX brakes to stop a 93.67hp TS? or is a 2p1p Legacy brakes more than enough...

 

Of course this is subjective.... if you wanna lup turbo and upgrade engine on a TS... than maybe a 4p2p is a good mod...

 

else... if your TS just add on the more common mods (crank pulley... exos... extractor... piggyback ecu... blah blah blah...) a 2p1p is more than enough

 

to add on to bro sleepgod's post... i think we have to consider the weight of our cars.

 

TS = 1280kg

 

All else (WRX, Forester, Legacy) = 1400kgs and above. Think 2/1 is more than enough. Let's not forget the Forester 2.0 is on rear drum brakes as well... icon_smile.gif

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Not too sure, but from observing the installation process of my brakes, it seems the Handbrake cable is probably something that's universal fitment - even if you use the longer cables from the older Legacy, like I did, they workshop should be able to fit a spacer to make it work. I think.

 

As for the backing plates, I suspect they have to correspond to the brakes (i.e. WRX brakes require WRX backing plates), because the WRX rear rotors appear to be larger and might not fit the Legacy backing plates.

 

Best to get confirmation from workshops. Do post your findings when you do, I'm sure many other bros would benefit from the info.

 

I checked with Ah Hua of BMS... the HB mech of Legacy brakes will have to be modified... specifically the bakcplate... the edges will have to be cut to allow the larger WRX rotors to fit in, other than that the brakes should go in fine.

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I checked with Ah Hua of BMS... the HB mech of Legacy brakes will have to be modified... specifically the bakcplate... the edges will have to be cut to allow the larger WRX rotors to fit in, other than that the brakes should go in fine.

 

Yep, that's what I meant - it's not a bolt-on affair.

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just fri, forester and LGT brakes do not clear 15" rims.

 

What's getting in the way? The rotors or the calipers?

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front calipers, they're abt 1cm too big

 

Hmmm... that's strange... when bro greggywong was demodding, he was on the 15" stock rims with Legacy NA brakes... wonder if he added spacers...

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legacy NA brakes fit fine, it's frostie and LGT brakes that don't fit

 

Oh... u mean the LGT and Forester brake calipers are larger than LNA even though they are all 2/1 pot? Hmmm... din know that

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yes

 

frostie and LGT 2/1 brakes are bigger than legacy NA 2/1 brakes, just FYI all

 

first hand experience!

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yes

 

frostie and LGT 2/1 brakes are bigger than legacy NA 2/1 brakes, just FYI all

 

first hand experience!

 

the man is right, from my experience as well it is bigger...

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Thanks. That's good information. That means I'm lucky to get LNA brakes instead... can demod to 15" stock rims if needed... icon_biggrin.gif

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