greygoose

having some problem with clutch, have a look (video)

24 posts in this topic

 

Hi guys, i'm having some problem with my clutch, it happens only occasionally. Most of the time its normal, but sometimes this happens: initially very low resistance, remaining very hard, and the clutch feels like "compressed", meaning i release very little and its at biting point already..

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Time to change clutch... think it only happens after u do some spirited driving? The clutch cover "fingers" becomes soft after it gets hot dat's y feel spongy. Happens to a lot of hawkeye wrx...

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hi, i also having this problem. u just try to press hard and let go fast. do it for few times.

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Time to change clutch... think it only happens after u do some spirited driving? The clutch cover "fingers" becomes soft after it gets hot dat's y feel spongy. Happens to a lot of hawkeye wrx...

 

no leh its not spongy, like loose until somewhere in the middle, and then becomes like normal clutch but "compressed" like the travel squeeze into half or less... and to rectify it is that i just leave it for 1min dont touch, it will almost be back to normal..

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i have experience this before.. usually after my high rev.. but after u leave ur car awhile.. it gets back to normal again..

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Hoho hopefully solved the problem, today mech sprayed wd40 at the pedal there seems like clutch feel good again so far...

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Bro... This happen to me and don't play play.. Might cost u alot... Ps, bro who try to press and release don't ever try that again... I did that and it damage my gear box caskets, fork, bearing, clutch pressure plate... Most important is don't damage the gear box casket... I still have the pic of the damage parts...

 

Can contact me at 91688484 and I can send u the pic vil watsapps..

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Hi,

 

If you hear any metal friction when you engage your gears, do go get it checked.

 

BMS mentioned that the clutch should last about 70000km and my ride has traveled only 40k plus.

 

But this can still happen. Anyway, the damage is ~$2k and the gear box housing is a used one.

 

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64022

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Master cyclinder pump. Normally happens when it gets too hot or after long drive. Symptoms of a failing pump.

 

If no grinding or no burning smell, its the pump. Otherwise bearings, if your clutch is nearing gone.

 

I had this problem once, and i thought was the clutch, changed a brand new set and the problem resurfaced. Its the pump that's giving the problem.

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Time to change clutch... think it only happens after u do some spirited driving? The clutch cover "fingers" becomes soft after it gets hot dat's y feel spongy. Happens to a lot of hawkeye wrx...

 

bro happened to me too, and i thought was the clutch.. changed pads + cover.. but it happened again icon_sad.gif

 

haha a few others pointed its the master pump failing to work when it's hot. but i dunno if necessary cause its still drivable. biting point gets very erratic, sometimes high sometimes low.

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bro happened to me too, and i thought was the clutch.. changed pads + cover.. but it happened again icon_sad.gif

 

haha a few others pointed its the master pump failing to work when it's hot. but i dunno if necessary cause its still drivable. biting point gets very erratic, sometimes high sometimes low.

 

 

Thumbs up!!!

 

I also got this problem.. Change the master pump and ok liao. Just replace ACT clutch.. think there is some problem with the bearing or clutch housing... haiz....

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bro happened to me too, and i thought was the clutch.. changed pads + cover.. but it happened again icon_sad.gif

 

haha a few others pointed its the master pump failing to work when it's hot. but i dunno if necessary cause its still drivable. biting point gets very erratic, sometimes high sometimes low.

 

For my case i've encountered, clutch pedal very low cannot engage gear, if can engage let go a bit biting point liao. Thought it's it's the clutch master pump or slave pump. Change both oso cannot solve problem. In the end took out clutch, It's the clutch plate fingers giving way...

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Hi,

 

This pic of your car is nice. Great angle

 

 

 

bro happened to me too, and i thought was the clutch.. changed pads + cover.. but it happened again icon_sad.gif

 

haha a few others pointed its the master pump failing to work when it's hot. but i dunno if necessary cause its still drivable. biting point gets very erratic, sometimes high sometimes low.

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For my case i've encountered, clutch pedal very low cannot engage gear, if can engage let go a bit biting point liao. Thought it's it's the clutch master pump or slave pump. Change both oso cannot solve problem. In the end took out clutch, It's the clutch plate fingers giving way...

 

mine still can engage gear haha. my biting point and release point can get as bad as 1mm away. becomes like a clutch on/off button haha but still driveable. only when my oil temp goes above 100+ than this prob will appear haha

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Hi,

 

This pic of your car is nice. Great angle

 

 

 

hi! Thanks for the compliment!! icon_smile.gificon_smile.gif

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thanks for all the replies, after i put the wd40 post i thought problem solved so didnt check back, but recently it start coming back again icon_sad.gificon_sad.gif

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So it seems like its the clutch slave cylinder which is failing, anyone know a rough gauge of the replacement cost? Would it be more economical to replace both the master and slave or just the one with problem?

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I have the same problem with mine. On MY07 gearbox.

 

It tends to happen when hot, like when stuck in jam for long time and keep engaging and disengaging clutch.

 

Sometimes after some blasting, it also happens.

 

Went to bleed the clutch fluid, then got better. But still intermittent, not so often.

 

Clutch lining is new. So is it the pressure plate or master pump or slave pump?

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Confirm either the master pump or the slave pump.

 

Both exhibit same symptoms:

 

1. Sticky clutch. Doesn't pop back out. got to use leg to pull

 

2. Biting point drops very low

 

3. Clutch pedal feels funky

 

4. Inconsistent biting point

 

5. Jerky gear shifts

 

6. Grinding sometimes

 

Happens when very hot, in a traffic jam, or car left to idle for awhile.

 

Best to change both as hard to diagnos.

 

Problem happens but a leak occuring is RARE. Normally internal seals of the pump worn out.

 

Happens usually from 60k km onwards.

 

Usually its the Master that fails.

 

 

Bleeding the clutch pumps solves it temporarily. But when its heated up again, the problem will arise once more. When it gets worst and when the symptoms kick it, shifting from neutral to 1st gear would need alot of clutch pumping before can shift.

 

Seems like a common problem for MY06/07 with age. Hydraulic clutches icon_sad.gif

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So it seems like its the clutch slave cylinder which is failing, anyone know a rough gauge of the replacement cost? Would it be more economical to replace both the master and slave or just the one with problem?

 

ranges from $350 onwards/upwards for replacement of both with labour, bleeding, new fluid..

 

Changing just one, either one, will be $200 onwards...

 

since both pumps exhibit similiar symptom.. might as well change both.

 

If change one, than the other one is the faulty one.. lose out in labour and time..

 

And normally after changing one, the other will fail also. More economical to change both at the same time.

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So far so good, even after jam for 45 mins at Causeway.

 

Hope it stays that way cause I do long drives up north.

 

This year end planning drive up Koh Samui, so car must be in tip top.

 

Oh, by the way, I am using MY07 WRX clutch on Forester 2.0XT.

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On 7/22/2011 at 11:03 AM, d3vil0gy said:

 

ranges from $350 onwards/upwards for replacement of both with labour, bleeding, new fluid..

 

Changing just one, either one, will be $200 onwards...

 

since both pumps exhibit similiar symptom.. might as well change both.

 

If change one, than the other one is the faulty one.. lose out in labour and time..

 

And normally after changing one, the other will fail also. More economical to change both at the same time.

Where can i go to change the master and slave clutch cylinders. MI have the parts in stock but insist i go for diagnostics first which is chargeable at $125 per hour! Thanks....

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5 hours ago, paulcyt said:

Where can i go to change the master and slave clutch cylinders. MI have the parts in stock but insist i go for diagnostics first which is chargeable at $125 per hour! Thanks....

give BKS @northlink a visit, they should be able to fix it up for you.

while you're at it, consider changing the clutch hose as well.. i had my master and slave cylinder changed last time, and the old clutch hose became a weakspot and started losing clutch fluid. so if you're changing both might as well do it all at one go. 

 

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